When we think of what makes a great perfume, in general, longevity or impact is the criteria by which people judge whether a a fragrance is 'good' or not—and it's easy to see why. Historically (and especially in the past 40 years), fragrance has been big, bold, and expressive. Perfumes like Mugler Alien, Dior J'Adore, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, and Maison Francis Kurdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 have defined the past few decades because they all have one thing in common—the ability to turn heads as soon as the wearer enters a room. This traditional way of wearing perfume positions it as a means to increase attraction and an opportunity to draw attention. Fragrances have relied upon heavy-hitting top notes like oud, musk, patchouli, and vanilla to turn heads and draw in compliments.
But in the past couple of years, things have begun to change and fragrance inspiration has moved away from lust and attraction toward scents that provide the wearer with a more meaningful or supportive connection. According to trend forecasters at WGSN, research in 2019 by Givaudan (which creates fragrances for almost 20% of the global market), shows that there's been a dramatic shift in behaviour, with 50% in the U.S. no longer identifying with the traditional ‘seduction’ image used by perfume brands. Instead, consumers want fragrances that promote self-assurance and authenticity, and that connect with them on a personal, individual level.
Now, don’t get me wrong. Heady, strong perfumes are never going to be redundant—they will always have their time and their place. Perfume is the perfect way to make a lasting impression, whether that's at a job interview, on a date, or at a party. But here’s a totally counterintuitive notion: Subtle perfumes often make the biggest impressions. Gen Z'ers certainly think so—according to WGSN, younger consumers are drawn to perfumes that focus on self-love and personal memories. They want fewer 'attention grabbing' notes and instead prefer perfumes with ‘close to skin’ musk notes, softly amplifying a ‘like me, but better’ style of scent.
As a migraine-sufferer, I've always preferred wearing more subtle fragrances (especially on a day-to-day basis), and I’ve found that when I wear a subtle, inconspicuous scent, people are always the most intrigued. Perfumes like Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 and Phlur Missing Person (which I can barely smell on myself) always bring in the compliments. Ultimately, I think it’s because subtle, niche scents have a bit more mystery to them. They’re not in your face, but they're still compelling and seductive, and that’s what makes them so appealing. A subtle scent will leave someone thinking about how good you smell, and it won’t seem like you tried too hard to smell good.
Below, I’ve rounded up my favourite subtle scents—plus a few bolder alternatives for those who do still like a strong perfume. Whether strong or subtle, all of the below are very long-lasting and still very much guaranteed to get you at least one 'you smell incredible' comment per wear.
1. Escentric Molecules Molecule 01
Key notes: Iso E Super.
Molecule 01 is the original skin scent, designed to mimic and enhance your natural fragrance. It's by far my most complimented perfume—I have literally had people chase me down streets to ask me what I'm wearing.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: Iso E Super, patchouli.
2. Byredo Gypsy Water
Key notes: juniper, lemon, bergamot, pepper, pine, vanilla, sandalwood, amber.
Byredo is known for its subtle and complex fragrances, all of which are completely unique and truly unlike anything you've ever smelt before. Gypsy Water is definitely one of the more intimate and sensual. It's citrusy and woody, so simultaneously smells clean but also a little earthy. I find it warms up on my skin and settles into something altogether sweet and comforting.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: juniper, iris, violet, amber, leather, patchouli.
3. Diptyque Eau Duelle
Key notes: vanilla, pink peppercorn, cypriol.
This fragrance is unique in that it's at the same time both sweet and spicy, which is what I think makes it so intriguing to those who smell it. It's a soft scent, so while it doesn't necessarily fill a room, it is still impactful when up close. I also find it lingers on my clothes and in my hair, which always helps with longevity.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: rose, blackcurrant, petitgrain.
4. Vilhelm Parfumeries Dear Polly
Key notes: bergamot, apple, black tea, amber, musk, oakmoss.
Tea is quite an unusual fragrance note in that it's both sweet and bitter, but again it's this juxtaposition which makes it smell so compelling. Set against a background of fresh, delicate notes like apple and oakmoss, it gives this subtle scent a comforting warmth.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: bergamot, leather, galbanum, patchouli, black amber.
5. Commodity Milk
Key notes: marshmallow, milk, tonka bean, musk, white cedar.
Aware of the fact that strength is often a defining factor when shopping for fragrance, Commodity produces each of its perfumes in three different strengths—Personal, Expressive, and Bold. While the key notes remain the same, others differ in order to reduce or enhance the intensity of the scent. Milk is one of my go-to 'comfort blanket' fragrances. It's warm, sweet, and always attracts compliments.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: marshmallow, milk, tonka bean, mahogany wood, firewood, amber.
6. Phlur Missing Person
Key notes: musk, bergamot, jasmine, cyclamen, neroli, orange blossom, sandalwood, white wood.
Inspired by the scent of clean, fresh skin, Missing Person is definitely one of the most subtle fragrances I've ever smelled. It's familiar and comforting (in the same way that wearing your partner's T-shirt is) but has subtle floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom that keep it sophisticated. With over 2.3 billion tags for this perfume on TikTok, Missing Person demonstrates exactly what younger consumers are looking for in the fragrance market.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: bergamot, lemon, saffron, jasmine, sandalwood, musk, amber, moss, vanilla, cedar.
7. Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Key notes: aldehydes, bergamot, sweet pea, jasmine, orange, white musk, sandalwood.
724 is designed to be worn at any time of day, in any season of the year, and by people of any gender. It's fresh and clean, but (refreshingly) doesn't have the piercing intensity of some more traditional aldehyde-based perfumes.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: saffron, jasmine, amberwood, ambergris, fir resin, cedar.
8. Serge Lutens Parole D'Eau
Key notes: pine needles, eucalyptus, citruses, musk.
Woody scents are typically quite strong, rich, and heavy, but Parole d'Eau is unique in that it relies upon light and fresh woody notes, softened and sweetened by the combination of musk and citrus. To me, it smells like the clean, fresh air of a forest walk.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: incense, castoreum, musk.
9. Penhaligon's Juniper Sling
Key notes: juniper, orange, pepper, cardamom, vetiver, sugar.
Juniper Sling is probably slightly closer to the stronger side of the subtle fragrance spectrum—notes like cardamom, orange, and pepper are always going to make an impact. With that said, it's a very soft and wearable fragrance which really mellows onto skin—it's perfect for daytime wear.
If you like to make a statement, try:
Key notes: cypress leaf, cardamom, saffron, rose, nutmeg, jasmine, oud, amber, musk.
Next Up: I Always Use This Fragrance Hack to Make My Perfume Last (and Get Compliments)
