Tatcha's New Silk Serum Is the Best Retinol Alternative We've Tried—Here's Proof

Welcome to Deep Reviews—your one-stop destination to discover the absolute best products and brands the beauty industry has to offer. The Who What Wear staffers you already know and trust will research, test, and review the market's most sought-after and buzzed-about products to see which (of the hundreds up for consideration) are truly worth your hard-earned money and attention. You can expect honest, completely uncensored feedback and no-BS recommendations our hard-to-please testers endorse without reservations.

The majority of our Deep Reviews will feature our editors' honest, ultra-hot takes on entire product categories or multiple products from a particular beauty brand, but every so often, we'll sprinkle in a special single-product format called Honestly, I Love It. As the name suggests, these reviews will hone in on a standout beauty formula our editors quite literally can't shut up about. This time around, we're doing a group format as I join a few of my fellow beauty colleagues to share honest feedback (plus pretty major before-and-after photos) on a newly launched product from Tatcha, one of our all-time favorite beauty brands. Enter The Silk Serum ($98). 

There aren't many brands—especially when it comes to skincare—that are universally loved by beauty editors everywhere, but Tatcha manages the feat spectacularly. In fact, I'd bet my yearly income that if you were to ask every beauty editor from Los Angeles to New York, they'd tell you there's at least one Tatcha product sitting on their vanity that they refuse to part with. For me, it's the Rice Wash Soft Cream Cleanser ($38), Dewy Skin Serum ($89), Dewy Skin Cream ($70), and Dewy Skin Mist ($49).

So it's not surprising that whenever the rumor mill begins to spin about a new buzzworthy launch on the horizon, industry ears everywhere perk up. Such was the case a few months ago when we found out Tatcha would be launching a new silky-smooth face serum designed to be a gentle, ultra-effective alternative to retinol. The Who What Wear team got their hands on it pre-launch to allow plenty of time for testing. Spoiler alert: We're pretty dang in love. Since everyone has different skin types and concerns, I asked my colleagues to submit honest feedback and unedited before-and-after photos. The product details and our honest reviews are below. Keep scrolling!

But where did the idea for Tatcha's new Silk Serum even come from? According to Rose Sparacio, Tatcha's head of product development, two things inspired the brand to develop Silk Serum. One was the increasingly high demand for retinol products. The other was the not-so-nice side effects and confusion many people experience when incorporating retinol into their routines. 

"It's not always clear when to use [retinol or] how often to use it, and then there's the irritation," says Sparacio. "It's estimated that about 20% of the population cannot tolerate retinol-based products due to skin sensitivity. For years, our team searched for a plant-based alternative that could deliver many of the same benefits without the drawbacks so that skin transformation is always a positive experience."

The Silk Serum isn't your average retinol substitute. In a world where many alternatives on the market feature the same hero ingredient as retinol (ahem, bakuchiol), Silk Serum swerves into another lane. "This formula is not a vitamin A derivative like retinol," explains Anna Karp, a consulting dermatologist for Tatcha. "Its retinol-like properties come from a duo of upcycled cranberry extract and sea fennel, which were shown to increase collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in clinical studies." Studies also showed The Silk Serum helped to significantly reduce redness, and no one developed irritation—even when participants spent time in the sun. That is practically unheard of! 

"The powerhouse of this formula is the potent combination of Hadasei-3—our proprietary complex of twice-fermented rice, algae, and green tea—and our new plant-based retinol alternative duo that combines upcycled cranberry extract and sea fennel to act on the same factors as retinol does to support collagen-depleted skin," shares Sparacio. As you may have gleaned from its name, this formula also features silk, a staple ingredient within the Tatcha product family that's rooted in Japanese heritage.

"Silk is a moisture-binding ingredient that helps smooth and plump the appearance of fine lines," says Sparacio. "Additionally, silk protein's amino acid composition makes the ingredient uniquely biocompatible with skin, and its regenerative, second-skin properties have made it popular in the medical field."

Another perk? Practically everyone can use the serum. "I especially recommend it to those with sensitive skin who can't normally tolerate retinol or even bakuchiol," Karp says. "I also think, based on the ingredients, this can be used safely on pregnant or nursing women."

Both Sparacio and Karp agree that, unlike retinol, The Silk Serum can be used daily from day one. They say it can also be used morning and night since it doesn't cause photosensitivity. For best results, they recommend applying it to clean skin after using Tatcha's The Essence and before using your favorite moisturizer.

Skin type: sensitive, acne-prone

Main skin concerns: breakouts, hyperpigmentation, fine lines

Do you use any Tatcha products now, or have you in the past? 

I've used Tatcha's Essence, Liquid Silk Canvas Primer, and Violet-C Serum, and I absolutely love them! Back when my skin was struggling and didn't react well to pretty much any product, the Liquid Silk Primer was the only primer I could use. Tatcha is a wonderful brand that's easy on sensitive skin and leaves you absolutely glowing. My skin can be reactive, and I can say that I've never had a bad reaction to a Tatcha product. It's a brand my skin loves and trusts.

What were your hopes and dreams for the Silk Serum? What type of results or improvements were you hoping to achieve? 

I've been struggling with some skin barrier damage after using tretinoin for a long time without properly moisturizing. I've tried to ease back into using a retinol, but that has proven tough. This serum actually presented a wonderful and gentle alternative my skin could actually tolerate. It has helped so much with dark spots, fine lines on my forehead, and brightening my skin overall.

This serum is supposed to act like a gentle retinol alternative to help smooth and firm fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. Did you notice any of these benefits? 

I definitely did! In fact, I'm so excited about the results I've seen so far that I'm definitely going to make this a permanent part of my routine. If you are dealing with a bit of barrier damage or just can't tolerate a retinol, I think this is a fabulous alternative. I'll definitely keep using it! Once I find something my sensitive skin loves, there's no turning back.

How would you rate the serum on a scale of one to five, and why? 

A five, wholeheartedly! I'm very picky about exfoliants and retinol because my skin is so sensitive, but I love that this also contains silk protein to add additional hydration. It really helps mitigate any potential irritation that can normally come with stronger exfoliants.

Would you recommend it to a friend or family member? Why or why not? 

I'd definitely recommend this to a friend or family member who is looking to reap the benefits of a retinol but may not be able to tolerate one or is just dipping their toe into it. It's so gentle on the skin and leaves it feeling so soft and hydrated.

What did you love and not love?

I really loved how hydrating it was and that it didn't leave any redness or irritation. It does have a slight fragrance, which I'm not usually a fan of, but this scent didn't bother me—it's pretty light.

Skin type: dry

Main skin concerns: dehydration, dullness

Do you use any Tatcha products now, or have you in the past?

Yes, I have been a Tatcha fan for years. I rarely come across a Tatcha product I don't like. The Dewy Skin Cream is one of my all-time favorite products, and I am also obsessed with newcomers from their Forest Awakening line. 

What were your hopes and dreams for the Silk Serum? What type of results or improvements were you hoping to achieve?

My skin has been a bit dull recently, and I've had some uneven skin tone and redness around my nose.

This serum is supposed to act like a gentle retinol alternative to help smooth and firm fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. Did you notice any of these benefits?

I'll be honest: I've had Botox, so I didn't notice anything on the fine line and wrinkles front! I can, however, speak to uneven skin texture and dullness. Overall, I feel like my skin has been much smoother and firmer since I started using this serum, and my skin tone looks more even. I also think it's calming. The red blotches on my face are minimized when I use it.

How would you rate the serum on a scale of one to five, and why? 

I would give it a four! I really like mixing it into my routine, and I think it has helped tremendously with my skin texture and dullness in my skin tone. I'll keep using it. It's made my skin radiant and less reactive. 

Would you recommend it to a friend or family member? Why or why not?

I definitely would! I would be intrigued to recommend it to someone who doesn't have Botox to see how well it holds up against fine lines and wrinkles, and I would absolutely recommend it to anyone who wants more even texture and skin tone. 

What did you love and not love?

I love the texture. I find it so easy to apply. I really enjoyed this serum, and I'm not sure I have a least favorite thing! It's solid through and through.

Skin type: combination

Main skin concerns: uneven skin tone, dark spots, fine lines 

Do you use any Tatcha products now, or have you in the past?

This is actually my first time trying a Tatcha product, but I have heard amazing things about the brand online and in real life. 

What were your hopes and dreams for the Silk Serum? What type of results or improvements were you hoping to achieve?

I hoped the Silk Serum would blur any fine lines around my mouth and under my eyes and help with the dullness my skin has been experiencing throughout the winter.

This serum is supposed to act like a gentle retinol alternative to help smooth and firm fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. Did you notice any of these benefits?

I definitely feel like my skin has looked better since adding the Silk Serum to my routine. It truly added a glow to my skin, which had looked and felt so dull all season. I haven't noticed a huge difference in my fine lines and wrinkles, but I think that will come over time. I have only been using the product for a week, so the fact that I'm seeing results already is amazing. 

How would you rate the serum on a scale of one to five, and why? 

I would rate this serum a four out of five. It's fast-acting and feels good on the skin. This serum has fragrance, which can usually cause irritation, but I haven't experienced any of that. I've gotten compliments on my skin when I'm barefaced, which is major. The serum didn't feel too heavy or too light, which made it the perfect addition to my minimalist skincare routine. I don't currently have any products in my lineup that have the properties of retinol or provide the same results, so I love experimenting with this alternative. I'm excited to see the difference in my skin after a month.

Would you recommend it to a friend or family member? Why or why not?

I would definitely recommend this to a friend or family member. Most of my friends and family are familiar with the brand and how effective the products are, so a recommendation from me wouldn't come as a shock! I love that this product works for all skin types and addresses so many of the skin concerns that we all seem to struggle with. This serum had such a seamless integration into my routine that I'm sure it would have the same effect on my friends and family or anyone else looking for a retinol alternative.

What did you love and not love?

My favorite thing about this product is how easily it melts into the skin and adds an immediate glow. My least favorite thing would have to be the fragrance. While this fragrance was nonirritating, I prefer scentless products.

Skin type: combination 

Main skin concern: dullness

Do you use any Tatcha products now, or have you in the past?

Yes! I haven't met a Tatcha product I haven't thoroughly enjoyed, but the Dewy Cream is a true all-star in my eyes. 

What were your hopes and dreams for the Silk Serum? What type of results or improvements were you hoping to achieve?

I realize it's a tall order, but I wanted my skin to look alive again. L.A.'s winter was so out of the norm this year, and the weather really did a number on me. I was hoping this would help brighten things up, add some extra moisture, and improve the overall dullness that was plaguing me.

This serum is supposed to act like a gentle retinol alternative to help smooth and firm fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. Did you notice any of these benefits?

I don't want to say that this has helped firm fine lines and wrinkles because I get Botox, but it did indeed help with overall dullness. 

How would you rate the serum on a scale of one to five, and why? 

Four! I think it's a solid formula that adds a lot of moisture and does brilliant things to my skin tone and texture. I absolutely love the serum, but I'm also a creature of habit. Usually when I'm testing new serums, I stop using my go-tos to try and minimize irritation. I can see myself incorporating this into my routine when my skin feels especially dull and lackluster, but probably not daily. 

Would you recommend it to a friend or family member? Why or why not?

I totally would! I feel like it's a great option for those who want to reap the same benefits of retinol without the harsh realities that come with most formulas. 

What did you love and not love?

The velvety texture is amazing. I absolutely love how it made my skin look and feel after using it. Do I have to pick a least favorite thing?

Skin type: normal

Main skin concerns: I sometimes experience dryness around the T-zone as well as some pesky discoloration around the eyes and forehead, thanks to a summer spent without enough sunscreen.

Do you use any Tatcha products now, or have you in the past?

No, I do not use any Tatcha products now and have never experienced them in the past. I'm so glad to have had the opportunity to get my hands on this launch!

What were your hopes and dreams for the Silk Serum? What type of results or improvements were you hoping to achieve?

I was definitely hoping it would target dry areas, plumpen the skin, and add some brightness. I paid close attention to how my skin looked directly after applying the product and how it looked hours after, hoping the dewiness and glow wouldn't disappear during the day. 

How would you rate the serum on a scale of one to five, and why? 

I would give it a four. As much as I loved the finished look of the serum immediately following application, I did notice it left a slight white sheen on the skin. (I first noticed this when testing it on the back of my hand.) However, I did love how quickly it absorbed into the skin and the smooth, plumping effect it gave. As of right now, I'll keep using it. However, as I head into the warmer months and my skin tone changes, I'm afraid the white sheen will show up more. I tan easily and often have to switch out the products in my skincare and makeup routine every few months or so!

Would you recommend it to a friend or family member? Why or why not?

Yes, I would recommend it to a friend or a family member because it does a great job of smoothing and brightening the skin. It's worth the price tag!

What did you love and not love?

My favorite thing about the product was the instant, natural-looking glow it gave my skin! My least favorite thing would probably be the slight white and semi-glittery sheen it leaves on my darker skin tone. 

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