The Runway Looks That Prove Paris Fashion Week Reigns Supreme

With New York, London, and Milan behind us—and all having left quite the impression—it's finally time to turn our attention to the one and only: Paris Fashion Week. We can't help but feel like maybe the fashion calendar is designed to save the best for last because we're always blown away by what we see on the final runways, and they really do set the tone for the trends we'll be wearing in six months' time.

Here, our editors will be updating you on the happenings at Saint Laurent, Dior, Isabel Marant, Balmain, and more as the shows unfold over the next week, so be sure to check back daily for your Parisian fix. 

Another PFW, another Dior runway show for the books. As usual, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri managed to pay homage to the brand's heritage (specifically by drawing inspiration from Catherine Dior, Christian Dior's sister) while still looking to the future and catering to the modern woman’s values of diversity and environmental consciousness. Her self-described "inclusive garden" was the perfect setting for this collection, which featured natural materials such as raffia alongside sharp and polished silhouettes and accessories.

If you’ve ever wondered how to pull off suiting in spring, Anthony Vaccarello has the answer: shorts. Beyond the blazers and smoking jackets though, his latest collection for Saint Laurent was rife with boots, dark prints, party-ready minidresses, and, of course, tons of black—all of which have become signatures of the house at this point and which shoppers, in turn, look to the brand for. Our favorite part of the show? Naomi, of course.

Feathers, fringe, mixed prints, bright colors, platforms, and more. Consider the Dries van Noten S/S 20 collection your guidebook to pulling off every tricky trend you can think of. While many designers are helping usher in an age of more toned-down dressing, the brand never fails to remind us why, sometimes, it's more fun to be wild. 

If Dries van Noten is the inspiration for party dressing next spring, consider Lanvin your guide to travel style for wherever next summer might take you. From trenches and casual suits to dresses and beach-ready looks all paired, of course, with relatively sensible shoes, your wanderlust wardrobe has arrived.

For her S/S 20 collection, Isabel Marant drew inspiration from the beautiful beaches of Brazil, putting her own Parisian touch on a wardrobe ready for a South American vacation. The matching (but not too matchy) sets, Henley tanks, short shorts, and long, flowy trousers all seemed simple enough but, of course, had that perfect relaxed-yet-flattering look that the designer has mastered over the years. Safe to say we'll be buying into this dream summer wardrobe next year.

If you’re looking for an S/S 20 collection to invest in for the long haul, this time around, Chloé just might be it. Through tailored separates, blouses, skirts, and accessories that are all timeless but also all uniquely of the brand’s French DNA, Creative Director Natacha Ramsay-Levi delivered looks with some serious staying power but, of course, a modern feel, too. The house used the phrase "grounded sophistication” in the show notes in reference to its new accessories, but, to be honest, I couldn’t think of a better way to describe the entire collection.

Continuing with what seems to be a theme among designers this season, Virgil Abloh also drew inspiration from nature for his latest collection for Off-White, but unlike Dior’s garden and Isabel Marant’s beaches, it was meteor showers and collisions of matter that got the designer’s wheels turning. However, don’t take that as the reason for the seemingly randomly placed holes in this season’s runway looks. As a graduate of the University of Wisconsin, Alboh said those details are an homage to Wisconsin sports fans (and their "cheesehead" hats), again reminding us to expect the unexpected at Off-White.

It was nearly impossible to select just one favorite Loewe look, not only because they were all lovely, but because they were all so different. While many elements such as lace and long, hanging ribbon ties carried over from item to item, as always, Jonathan Anderson found countless unique ways to carry out his artistic vision for the season. And since it wouldn’t be a Loewe show without a new It bag, remember the name Balloon because in six months’ time, it’s sure to be a hit.

Modernity and heritage intertwined beautifully in Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s S/S 20 collection for Hermés. Minimalist tailoring, relaxed leather separates, and gorgeous apron-style dresses were the easy, effortless, and smart investment pieces that today’s modern working women dream of owning in their wardrobes. An easy-to-wear palette of chocolate brown, black, cream, camel, and olive took center stage with Vanhee-Cybulski proving that these sumptuous pieces will long outlive passing trends.

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s spring collection was like a breath of fresh air—joyful, uplifting, and optimistic—featuring billowy bishop’s sleeves, plenty of feminine ruffles, sweet mini and maxi georgette dresses, fresh shorts, romantic sheer fabrics, and a dose of whimsical feathers that flowed down the runways in hues of predominantly white (the whole opening section of the show was dedicated to pristine white hues), as well as delightful shades peach, pink, plum, and vibrant pops of neon. If you’re looking for a more casual (and wearable) take on Valentino’s voluminous couture silhouettes, then this one’s for you.

Titled "NY Paris 1993,” English designer Clare Waight Keller’s S/S 20 collection was inspired by her time working in fashion in New York and Paris in the ’90s—contrasting  the tomboyish and minimalist way women dressed in New York versus the much more effervescent style in Paris that was still recovering from the excesses of the ’80s. The designer leaned into the popular leather trend with chic dresses, pencil skirts, and blouses, but the most unexpected fabric was denim. From ripped jeans to bleached skirts, the pieces were made from actual upcycled ’90s vintage denim, a nod to sustainability and a more conscious future.

Demna Gvasalia’s S/S 20 collection was an ode to working people—investigating the subject of power-dressing and fashion uniforms. He took inspiration from all professions, from female politicians to private equity associates, law students, architects, and creative types, to create looks comprised of tailored daywear, strong shoulders, and practical outerwear—giving the pieces that renowned cool, Balenciaga touch and creating boxy, cocoon-y, outsized shapes and oversize silhouettes with major volume.

The inspiration behind Sarah Burton’s S/S 20 collection for Alexander McQueen was based on clarity—pairing things down to the essence of the garment. Every piece was purposeful, spectacularly beautiful, and told its own story. But what was perhaps even more beautiful was Burton’s conscious and sustainable use of upcycled and recycled fabrics, local sourcing, and artisanal approach. Romantic lace, ruffles, organza, and tulle were paired with her signature classic tailoring—providing everything from wedding-worthy looks to power suits for a smart office setting. A truly exquisite collection in which Burton took the time to care about every piece created.

The ’70s are well and truly back, as witnessed in full force at Hedi Slimane’s S/S 20 runway show. From bootcut jeans to pleated silk dresses, cool culottes, aviators, and hippy jackets, the collection leaned into the French bourgeoisie scene circa 1974 when Parisian girls were loved by the world for their true nonchalant style. Every piece is utterly wearable, and there’s no question fashion girls will be emulating Slimane’s impeccable styling of each gorgeous look.

With over 75% of the materials in Stella McCartney’s S/S 20 collection being eco-friendly, this was McCartney’s most sustainable collection yet. The looks were made up of beautiful, uplifting, breezy and sensuous dresses alongside her signature minimal tailoring and utility-inspired sportswear. Most notably, McCartney used the symbol of the circle (which represents the earth and femininity) in a plethora of her pieces from skirts to scalloped sleeves. There’s no doubt the collection left a positive and playful mark with a strong environmental message to boot.

The idea (and joy) of making more with less was excitedly observed at Miuccia Prada’s S/S 20 collection for Miu Miu. From leather skirts with charming handpainted flowers to mismatched gold and pearl buttons on a black pinafore and humble embellishments (that look like they could have been found at a flea market) decorated on simple black coats, Prada’s elevated basic feminine silhouettes showcased creative raw materials and adornments. This DIY creativity exuded a glamorous (and very Miu Miu) 1940s touch.

Nicolas Ghesquière’s S/S 20 collection sent us back to the Belle Époque era of Paris—a time rich in French arts, literature and culture—and the era where Louis Vuitton all started. Harking back to the fundamentals of romanticism, the designer transposed Art Nouveau influences onto clothing, from pouf sleeves to floral boutonnieres and artistic prints. Ghesquière brought together the 20th and 21st centuries harmoniously, adding a modern touch to the enchanting Belle Époque–inspired pieces.

Up next, the latest street style from Paris Fashion Week.