I'm a Simp for Jacquemus—9 Pieces I'm Buying to Re-Create the S/S 2023 Looks

If someone were to scan the contents of your closet and your private messages, would they be able to tell if you had a specific affinity for a brand? My hypothesis is that everyone has at least one label (or more) they're obsessed with. Admittedly, this concept was only crafted from my own lived experience of the almost all-consuming relationship I have with one specific brand: Jacquemus. I shouldn't admit this, but I can't tell you how many times my loved ones have held back an eye roll because I can't stop rambling about another piece I'm coveting from the French label. Or how they've found me mid-scroll, looking through archival collections or trying to track down a vintage item multiple times. In short, I'm a simp for Jacquemus. 

But I'd argue that the grip this label has on me is rational once you're able to fully see the vision that Simon Porte Jacquemus has been able to bring to life through his work. Most may be acquainted with the label because of its buzzy accessories, but make no mistake, there's far more to this brand than its viral It items. Porte's work is captivating because he's been able to capture the fantasy surrounding French culture and weave it into ready-to-wear collections that are not only functional but are (for lack of a better word) super pretty.

Nothing displays that vision more vehemently than the brand's most recent Spring/Summer 2023 collection. It felt like the clearest culmination of the label's evolution over the past 14 years. But you don't have to take my word for it. I've dug into Jacquemus's recent collection to show why this brand has built a cult following. Plus, I've identified the key pieces needed to recreate the look off the runway. If you weren't a fan of the brand before, you're about to be. 

Before listing the key pieces I'll be shopping for to re-create the brand's looks, let's dig into the spring/summer 2023 collection a bit. Entitled Le Raphia, the show was held outside Paris to an intimate crowd of fashion insiders and celebrities. It was a fitting name for the show considering the fact that raffia pines rained down from above as over 54 looks made their way down the runway. According to what Porte told Vogue, the inspiration for the collection was that it was created for "the girls you'd imagine in Portofino or Capri."

While Porte may have been dreaming of the Italian coastline (which was visible through the usage of polka-dot prints and sunflower clip-on earrings), it still harkened back to the quintessential elements associated with this French fashion house. But what exactly are some of those key pieces that have made this brand what it's known for today? And how did Porte pay homage to them in the brand's S/S 23 collection? Keep scrolling as I break it down.

You can't speak to Porte's unique point of view regarding design without addressing one of the fundamental parts of every collection: tailoring. Ever since the brand's founding in 2009, the designer has always played with suiting in a jovial way that brings the couture elements of French fashion to the forefront without the stuffiness. For example, in the spring/summer 2023 collection, we saw women and men in classic linen suits adorned with raffia palm fringe on the runway.

Some suits had embroidered raffia at the cuffs, while others had skirts and tops made from raffia styled over the suiting separates. While the raffia appliqué pieces may be a bit too conceptual for most wardrobes, the suiting was strong enough to make a case for investing in the brand. Blazers featured off-the-shoulder cuts, woven fabrications, and ultra-flattering nipped-in waists that put Porte's complete knack for playing with hemlines out on full display. They reminded us that even the most functional pieces in our wardrobes could feel fun.

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If you look through archival collections of Jacquemus, you might notice few and far-between denim separates on the runway. While that doesn't mean we haven't seen denim separates from the designer, the S/S 23 collection marked the first time we saw multiple runway looks centered around the textile. But even with the broader adoption of this fabric, these still weren't your typical pairs of jeans. For example, the ever-popular relaxed-fit silhouette was given that signature whimsical Jacquemus twist through dried wheat woven into the fabric to create the appearance of distressed denim that's been stitched back up again.

Though it's a small detail, it speaks to the larger heritage of the brand. Even if you look at past collections like the S/S 21 collection, L'Amour, which featured wheat sheaf beaded tassels on linen separates, it's clear that Porte has continually pulled inspiration from nature over time to transform everyday pieces.

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Now we get to my favorite part... Jacquemus's bags. We can't talk about recreating the aesthetic of this brand without mentioning one of the accessories that put the brand on the map: the Le Chiquito mini bag. Released as a part of the brand's S/S 18 "La Bombe" collection, the bag became a huge sensation despite its tiny size. And since then, the brand has become the place for bag ladies (ahem, me) to find the next wave of it-bags for the season. While there's no shortage of newer noteworthy bag silhouettes from the brand, the one that felt the most relevant was the reintroduction of raffia bags in its S/S 23 collection.

Anyone following Porte's work for a while is most likely aware that this is not the brand's first foray into woven purses—the S/S 19 collection "La Riviera" featured an oversize and micro tote called "Le Baci" that had raffia fringe. The style may not have become as prolific as other styles, but respect must be paid to how Porte can turn even the most formerly "passé" bag styles into the season's must-have item. And on a personal note, not purchasing the Le Baci bag has haunted me for years, so you can understand why the reintroduction of raffia is riveting from my perspective. With the more contemporary takes on this bag style seen in the S/S 23 collection (in the form of shoulder bags and wicker baskets covered in raffia fringe), it's safe to say my FOMO around missing out on securing my own Jacquemus raffia bag can finally dissipate.

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In my humble opinion, one of the most underrated aspects of Jacquemus's collections is the jewelry. Launched in 2020, the expansion into this accessories category hasn't been as buzzy as its bags, but it should be. The brand's jewelry offering has been slowly carving out its own space in the market, and that's even more apparent with the release of the S/S 23 collection. Unlike other demi-fine collections, the pieces are often more playful and androgynous in nature. For example, we saw a male model wearing a black linen suit styled with a choker with a hammered "J" initial on the runway this season. At the same time, multiple women were wearing oversize earrings in the form of sunflower-like clip-ons, single oblong-shaped silver earrings, and even colorful beaded hoops. Basically, eclectic jewelry was an inescapable part of the collection and is arguably one of the easiest ways to adopt the "Jacquemus" aesthetic this spring. 

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As previously mentioned, denim played a more significant part in Jacquemus's S/S 23 collection, and that influence wasn't limited to pants. We saw everything from denim handbags to slingback heels and, of course, outerwear. And while I'm usually not the biggest fan of denim, one look managed to convert me to the cause on sight (spoiler, it was the look above). The runway look featured a drop-waist denim and linen skirt styled with a cropped denim jacket with an exaggerated collar poplin top layered underneath. And it was, in many ways, a newer take on Porte's continued exploration of playing with proportions which have always used dramatic tailoring, sultry waistlines, and approachable fabrications to create ultra-flattering pieces that anyone would want to wear. 

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After scouring the archival collections, it's hard to deny how much color has played a pivotal role in telling the brand's story over the years. The brand's spring/summer 2023 collection is no exception to that long tradition. Almost every shade under the sun was represented in the clothing—from sunflower yellow to red chili pepper red to French lavender and bubblegum pink. But possibly the most noteworthy of all was the embrace of a sleek silver hue. While we've seen metallics dominate other designers' collections, no one made it look as cool as Porte did. Maybe it's that innate je ne sais quoi vibe, but my guess is the secret was all in the styling. One thing that's made Porte's collections so popular over time is how it's shown to wear some of the biggest trends through easy-to-follow formulas.

Jacquemus's runway collections typically always pair more "formal" pieces with "casual" things—a styling ethos fully embodied in the runway look above. The idea of wearing a metallic bottom may be off-putting initially. But after seeing how an embellished lavender crochet swimsuit was styled underneath an unbuttoned maxi metallic denim skirt, it's suddenly approachable. Like all of the brand's previous collections, its S/S 23 runway show proved that pulling off some of the brightest color trends all comes back to knowing how to style it effortlessly. And if you don't know how to wear it, its runway collections will show you the way. 

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What's another accessory that's weaved into the DNA of Jacquemus? It's woven oversize hats (excuse the pun). Much like the debut of the Le Chiquito mini bag, the release of the La Bomba Panama from its S/S 18 collection sent shock waves through the fashion industry. But what many might not know is how statement hats have been a signature part of the brand's offering from the start.

Two collections before that infamous spring 2018 La Bombe collection, we saw various styles (from boater to cloche hats) represented on the runway. And since then, almost every season has included some form of a head covering, including its S/S 23 collection. With this season, we saw a pivot from the bucket hats and kerchiefs seen in previous seasons into wide-brim cartwheel-shaped hats made from woven raffia and even raffia pines that resemble fringe. While the styles are arguably more dramatic than in past seasons, they feel as if they symbolize the brand's return to its roots.

After all, what other piece screams "Jacquemus" more than a sun hat? 

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In case it's unclear, most of Jacquemus's pieces (both in its S/S 23 collection and archives) tap into the idyllic fantasy surrounding a stylish person just basking in the sun wearing beautiful pieces. Nothing, in my mind, represents visually represents that aim more than the signature sultry maxi dresses that have become synonymous with the brand's image.

While Porte always pulls inspiration from various dreamy destinations worldwide, the designer has admitted to always reminiscing about his time spent in the summer as a child with his late mother in the South of France. His reverence for that time and the women in his life is ever-present in how he approaches dressmaking.

Porte's dresses often feature summer-ready fabrics (linen and cotton) in vibrant hues draped over the female form, tapered at the waist, and finished with slinky straps. This is a designer that you can tell loves women's bodies, and his dresses have become beloved among the fashion set for that very reason. 

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Last but certainly not least, you can't really have a complete spring wardrobe, or a runway collection for that matter, without footwear. Luckily for us, Porte also designs some of the low-key chicest shoes. In the S/S 23 collection, for instance, there was everything from kitten slingback heels to chunky clogs, and strappy sandals. But the details are what make Porte's footwear stand the test of time. For example, those aforementioned kitten heels are made special with the addition of mismatched circle and square appliqués that are directly pulled from the brand's 2016 resort collection. While the collection's strappy sandals feature an array of newer design elements, including vibrantly-hued straps, buckles, label-adorned hardware, and more raffia fringe.

Much like all of Porte's work, the footwear is indicative of this designer's ability to make consumers (and even window shoppers) feel as if they've been transported to a far-off destination without having even to walk a single mile. It's no surprise, then, why so many people have become stans of this brand—it does what fashion is supposed to do: transport us into a fantasy. I don't know about you, but I don't mind living in the beautiful made-up world of Simon Porte Jacquemus. 

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Next: 14 Spring Dress Styles French Women Rely on to Look Elegant