The Kate Moss–Approved Way to Shop Sustainably

It’s no secret that charity shops have become a trove of second-hand vintage gems sought out by fashion insiders and thrifty dressers alike. While the stigma around owning and wearing pre-loved clothing has come a long way, browsing racks that span miles can still feel like an overwhelming pursuit for those who don’t know the tell-tale signs to look out for. How, then, do you shop in charity shops? We need only look to the experts for advice.

You only need a quick scroll through Pinterest to see that Kate Moss's '90s style is still idolised. In a 2020 interview with The Guardian, the supermodel revealed how she managed it on a tight budget.

"I love a charity shop," Moss told fashion photographer David Bailey. "Because you know what, all these vintage shops, they just go and trawl all the charity shops. Then put them in their shops for £500 because they know what a Balmain shirt looks like."

"From the age of 14 to 18 or 19, I got all my clothes from Oxfam," Moss added. "And then I started making myself go vintage so I didn't have to trawl. You couldn't buy '70s clothes in shops in the early '90s, it was all late-'80s clothes. I wanted to dress like a hippy—those ribbed jumpers, that was the only place to get them."

And yes, she does now donate to charity shops, sending the archival pieces from her own wardrobe to the Oxfam and Sue Ryder in Highgate.

"I do my clean-outs–an archive pile, a back-in-the-wardrobe pile, and we take a pile to charity," Moss explained. (Though we're certain some of her most iconic pieces have been rehoused to her daughter, Lila Moss.)

Still, perusing second-hand stores requires a little more than frequenting the boutiques that you know fashion icons supply with their former wares.

So yes, our primary charity shopping tip is to go to these first, but if you're still curious how to properly shop charity shops, we've also sought out advice from the best in the business to optimise your experience.

As anyone who has shopped along London's famed Portobello Road—a stretch of road lined with one-of-a-kind pieces and peddlers hawking inimitable finds from their market stalls—would know, the area is a mecca for archival designer pieces and arguably one of the best places in the world to shop

Amongst the vendors are stores like Rellik Vintage and Lovers Lane, two West London mainstays that have been dressing 'It Girls' with Tom Ford-era Gucci, Dior by John Galliano, rare Alexander McQueen, early Vivienne Westwood and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel (just to name a few!) for what feels like forever. (Rellik Vintage, which is tucked away on the Golborne Road side of Notting Hill, has been around since 1999 while Lovers Lane opened its doors in 2019.)

In a '90s crossover, employees from Lovers Lane Vintage stand outside of the iconic blue front door from 'Notting Hill' in archival Gucci runway pieces including a tie-up leopard-print faux fur coat from the Fall/Winter 1998 collection and a denim jacket and a wool jacquard logo skirt from Spring/Summer 1999.

While their edits are far more curated than anything you could find in a charity shop, the principles remain the same: "Don’t stress yourself out. Know what you’re looking for and get a fitting room going asap. Only try on the pieces you love," as Lovers Lane co-founder, Charlotte Cohu, explains.

Ahead, Cohu and Rellik Vintage co-founder and owner Fiona Stuart tells Who What Wear UK exclusively how to separate the duds from the drop-dead gorgeous, the styles you should always chase and how to get into the right frame of mind for a day on the tools. (See: handing over your cash in exchange for enviable hand-me-downs.) Indeed, there's no need for buyer's remorse (or envy!). Keep scrolling below for the expert's golden rules for seeking out the best pieces in charity shops.

How to Shop in Charity Shops, According to Experts

1. Don't Focus on Brands

People often look at the labels to price the pieces, but don't be fooled. It's more important to check the quality of the fabrics, cut and state of the garment, rather than the designer tag. This isn't typically the place where you'll unearth instantly recognisable high-end designer items, as the majority of stock will be by high street or lesser-known labels. For that reason, both Stuart and Cohu advise being wary of designer brands altogether.

"As more and more people are looking to buy designer second-hand or vintage pieces there has been a huge increase in fakes," Cohu tells us. This is a sentiment Stuart echoes. "I would just say be wary of fake designer accessories, especially expensive bags," she adds of the risk of shopping charity shops.

To avoid falling into this trap, Cohu recommends buyers to "do their research" and only buy from "reputable shops and sources".

"If it seems too good to be true, unfortunately, it most likely is."

2. Always Check the Fabric

Always carefully check the fabric of the pieces. "The best quality vintage garments are usually produced in quality fabrics," notes Stuart. "These would be cashmere, silk, cotton and linen, basically all-natural fibres."

Of these materials, Cohu observes that the older garments typically are a superior make when compared to the standards of now. "The quality is much higher than the pieces you would find today," she continues.

Don't forget, you can get a real bargain on these, so it's worth reading the label.

3. Learn What Pieces Charity Stores Are Good for

When shopping at charity shops, it's always an opportunity to take stock of basics that can easily fill missing gaps compared to a statement piece you might only wear once on a special occasion.

Stuart suggests that "building on wearable wardrobe staples is easily achieved when buying vintage". According to her, fundamentals a great pair of trousers, a knit like a sweater or a vest and shirting. You might be tempted to steer away from these style building blocks when buying from a charity shop, but you can always find something with character and a backstory in these spots. "That fabulous designer coat or jacket will only be the icing on the cake," Stuart adds.

This is advice that Cohu believes, too. "Look out for anything that can be worn day to night," she mentions. "For me, staples are a pair of well-fitting vintage denim, a good leather jacket and a little black dress."

4. Don't Rush the Decision-Making

You don't want to spend £25 on something just because it boasts a designer label when you'd never buy it if you saw it when shopping for expensive-looking high street buys.

Charity shops can encourage impulse purchases, so always ensure you actually like it and that it will fit into your wardrobe.

5. It Takes Patience

Think of charity shopping like a never-ending hunt. In her Guardian interview, Kate Moss said whenever she passed a charity shop, she would go in it just in case. The item you want usually isn't what they merchandise on the mannequins, so you need to trawl through all of the rails.

"The more you look, the more likely you’ll find something you want," Stuart promises. Don't feel disheartened if you walk home empty-handed, either. "It’s very unlikely you will find a gem in every store you visit. But it’s a numbers game."

6. It Also Takes Practice

In the same vein, becoming an excellent shopper is similar to working a muscle. The more you do it, the better you'll be at it. You may uncover something unique and wonderful on the first go, but to truly score again and again, it's worth investing in the pursuit and regularly frequenting your favourite charity shop.

In terms of the cadence, Cohu advises visiting a charity shop "whenever you can make time."

"Try popping into second-hand or vintage shops on your lunch break or make a day of shopping with your friends! It’s fun to just go and explore and see what’s out there." Who knows, your perfect match could be one rack away...

Stuart, on the other hand, believes there's a more practical reason for this trick. "Some stores might put new stock out every day, others might put some new stock out once a week," she notes. "It’s good just to get into a habit of regularly visiting your favourite shop. That way you can spot new things quickly rather than being distracted."

7. Make a Day of It

On that note, if you're looking to make a day of shopping, the perfect itinerary is as follows. Wake up bright and early, greet the day with a coffee and your pastry of choice before wandering to the charity shops as soon as they open.

According to the experts, if you want a better chance of hunting down second-hand by starting your shopping expedition early.

"New stock will usually be put out in the morning and the best pieces go quickly," explains Cohu. "For example, if you’re visiting Portobello Road Market near Lovers Lane, we always recommend people go at 8 or 9AM."

Of course, we mightn't have all day to devote to this cause. If you only have an hour, Stuart claims that 60 minutes is "more than enough to hopefully find something and enjoy the experience."

Still, it is quite fun to try on clothes and indulge in a bout of frivolity. But if the idea of rising with the sun on a weekend is off-putting, think of all the salespeople who are on their feet before daybreak setting up their trinkets for our buying pleasure. That brings us to our next point...

8. Get Familiar With the Store's Employees

Friendliness goes a long way, and it doesn't hurt to acquaint yourself with the employees and owners of your favourite second-hand or charity shop, especially if you're a regular. This is something Cohu recommends too.

"Get to know the people who own them, their stories and why they are so passionate about what they do." She acquaints shopping pre-loved to a never-ending treasure hunt. It's true that those who love vintage become addicted to the chase of finding the next great thing. "Once you find your first second-hand gems you’ll never want to stop looking," she adds.

9. Be Mindful

Shopping second-hand is the most sustainable practice when it comes to reducing the amount of textile waste produced. "It’s affordable and great for the planet," Stuart reminds us "There are so many great clothes looking for new homes."

Still, you should be mindful and intentional when it comes to your purchasing output. Just because you're buying pre-loved, it doesn't mean you have to buy on a whim. Going in with a refined taste can reap benefits, and it's just small things like knowing "what fabrics, patterns and shapes you like and keeping an eye out for them poking out the racks", according to Cohu.

10. Be in the Right Frame of Mind

How do you get into that headspace, you ask? According to Stuart, you should "make sure you have time, preferably shop alone and have eaten. Following that, you'll then be in the right frame of mind to "zone in one rack at a time in a sort of mediative state". Sounds blissful, no?

11. Get a Changing Room Going ASAP

"When buying vintage, you really need to try everything on," Stuart explains. Cohu agrees: "The only solution is trying pieces on. Over time, you’ll get to know how different materials and brands fit."

12. Factor in Your Outfit

Make sure you pull out the pieces you're drawn to and get a fitting room going asap. In saying that, you might want to make sure you're wearing something comfortable that you can slip and out of in a pinch. You might be searching for the perfect early Miu Miu mini dress, but it doesn't mean you have to wear one to find it.

"I've been known to shop in a tracksuit, purely out of comfort and ease," explains Who What Wear SEO Writer, Ava Gilchrist. "Sure, it will warrant a few odd looks, and you may feel like a bad imitation of Paris Hilton, but there's nothing more stressful to me than piling on layers and tackling thermals when you just want to find something that makes you look cute and feels good on. Breaking into a sweat while shopping is, to quote the reality star and author, 'not hot'."

13. Go to Charity Shops in Highbrow Areas

It pays to think strategically about where you go charity shopping. In London, stick to highbrow areas like Highgate, Kensington, Chelsea, Chiswick and Marylebone. I know someone who once found a Dior dress hiding in a charity shop near to Belgravia…

14. Consider Tailoring

Have an open mind when it comes to sizing and fit, as you can have dresses, jackets and trousers tailored so they fit perfectly.

Employees from Lovers Lane Vintage wearing pieces from Gucci's Spring/Summer 1998 collection, Miu Miu's Spring/Summer 1999 runway and Karl Lagerfeld-designed Chanel from Fall/Winter 1994.

15. Invest in Maintenance

Given that your new purchase will most likely be a decade old at minimum, these garments will require a little more tender, love and care compared to anything you buy new. "It’s important to get your purchases cleaned professionally," says Stuart. Not only will this extend the life of the piece, but it 'it prevents moths and your clothes will smell and look like new".

16. Pick Charity Shops That Have Edited Vintage Sections

If you don't want to rummage too much, go to charity shops that have curated vintage sections and edited rails, such as Mary's Living and Giving shops.

Shop our Charity Shop Edit: