You're Probably Filing Your Nails Wrong—Manicurists Share 7 Tips (Plus What *Never* to Do)

Filing your nails (much like detangling your hair or applying perfume) seems like a task that doesn't require a tremendous amount of skill. Let's be real: If you can do it while lying down on the couch, it can't require that much dexterity, right?

The truth is that, no, nail filing is not exactly rocket science, but there is a proper method to ensure your oval (or square, almond, squoval, etc.) claws appear in tip-top shape. A few underrated—yet pretty common—mistakes, and you'll wind up with frayed, damaged nails and jagged edges. Not cute.

So how do you correctly file nails? I consulted celebrity manicurist Deborah Lippmann and L.A.-based nail artist Sigourney Nuñez for an expert-level breakdown, so you can groom your natural nails to perfection. Ahead, find seven steps for a salon-grade shape.

How to File Your Nails Correctly

Step 1: Trim to Your Desired Shape

Here's what most people don't know about shaping your nails: Your clippers can actually do a lot of the legwork for you. "It is always important to trim your nails before filing, especially if you are looking to change up your nail length or shape," notes Lippmann.

For example, if you love an oval look, you'll want to trim your nails slightly longer than your desired length, starting at the sides. For square nails, however, you'll want to trim the center first and keep the sides straight. For almond nails, trim the sides to form a tapered point… and the list goes on. You can find the most flattering nail shapes for every length here, in case you're craving some inspiration.

Step 2: Start at the Side Walls

No matter which shape you choose, you'll want to start filing the sides first before working your way to the middle. "Start by holding your file at a slight angle, parallel to your nail tip," instructs Lippmann. "You don’t want to start to shape towards the center. Keep the side wall going straight for about ⅛ to ¼ of an inch before starting to shape the tip of the nail inward."

Step 3: File in One Direction

"I personally always recommend shaping in one direction, versus moving the file back and forth, because this can help prevent splitting at the free edge," says Nuñez. It might feel intuitive to "saw" your nails back and forth, but according to the pros, this does your nails way more harm than good. "This weakens the nails and causes splitting and peeling," notes Lippmann.

Step 4: Swap Sides Frequently

You don't want to perfectly shape one side wall at a time. Rather, keep flipping the file to give each side wall an equal amount of attention. "Think of it like when you are tweezing your brows. You want to jump from one brow to the other to make sure you’re not plucking away too much on one side," says Nuñez. She also recommends rotating your hands every so often to view your nails from a different POV. "This is going to help make sure you are shaping them evenly," she notes.

Step 5: Shape the Center

Once you have the side walls defined, you can start to shape the middle of the nail. Each nail shape requires a slightly different angle, which Lippmann and Nuñez detail below.

• Oval: "File the sides in a straight motion toward the center, angling the file slightly to create a smooth curve. Continue rounding the tip to achieve an oval shape," says Lippmann.
• Square: "File your nail straight across to create a flat tip, smoothing out any rough edges," Lippmann adds. Nuñez also recommends rounding out the corners just a tad so they don't snag on your hair or clothes.
• Squoval: "Begin by shaping your nail into a square, keeping the sides straight. Gently round off the corners to soften the edges, ensuring both sides remain straight to preserve balance," Lippmann explains.
• Round: "The best guide for round nail shape is looking at your fingertip shape. You kind of want to mimic that same curve and roundedness," says Nuñez. Lippmann suggests trimming your nails to a shorter length, filing the sides straight, and then gently rounding the tip into a curve.
• Almond: After you trim your nails to a tapered point, "File diagonally from each side toward the center of the nail tip," says Lippmann. "Smooth and round out the soft peak."

Step 6: Buff to Finish

"I like to buff underneath the free edge once I am happy with my shape. This step is to help remove any fraying at the free edge," says Nuñez. Both she and Lippmann don't recommend buffing the actual nail plate unless you're prepping the surface for gels or acrylics; it's not really necessary for regular polish or overall nailcare.

If you do choose to buff, "Make sure not to buff the nails from side-to-side, as this creates heat from the friction that can dry out your nails or even cause damage," says Lippmann. Just like filing, buffing in one direction is key.

Step 7: Wash, Treat, and Paint

Wash your hands to get rid of any dust and debris, says Nuñez, then nourish the nails with a good cuticle oil or strengthening treatment. Moisturizing the nails is never a bad idea, but it's especially important after manipulating them with a nail file to prevent splitting and fraying. Read: Filing your nails without that extra TLC is a recipe for brittleness and breakage.

Afterward, you're all set for polish. Unless, of course, you're gunning for a "naked nail" look.

FAQs

Is it better to file your nails wet or dry?

"Dry, always!!!! Nails tend to become softer when they are in water, so filing them during this stage would cause a lot of breakage," warns Lippmann. Not to mention, filing softer, bendier nails can just look wonky. "They get really flexible, and it doesn’t allow for as much precision," adds Nuñez.

What are some common mistakes people make when filing nails?

The biggest mistake, Lippmann and Nuñez both tell me, is "sawing" the nails back and forth. This splits open the free edge and can lead to fraying. Choose one direction to file (either left to right or right to left) and stick with it!

"Another common mistake is not holding the file in the proper position," adds Lippmann, who recommends holding your file parallel to your nail tip at a slight, 45-degree angle. "Avoid filing perpendicular to the nail to reduce the risk of splitting," she adds.

Another faux pas? Accidentally filing away too much of the nail's structure. "People often unintentionally dig into the sidewall too much and file away an important part of the free edge that is needed to maintain the structure of the nail shape, especially if you are trying to shape an almond," notes Nuñez. "This often happens because people are trying to achieve a more narrow shape, but what it does instead is make the nail more likely to break because the corners have now been removed."

How do you choose a nail file?

Did you know that each file has a tiny number that indicates its abrasiveness? The higher the number, the finer the abrasive particles—and the gentler the nail file.

"If you are filing your natural nails, 240 is the ideal grit because it smooths out the edges without being too abrasive," notes Nuñez. "Nail files that are 180 or lower are typically more coarse and reserved for shaping enhancements like gels or acrylics. So make sure you are using a fine grit file on natural nails." Glass nail files tend to be gentler than standard emery boards (plus, they're quite chic and easy to clean), which makes them a great at-home option for everyday nailcare.

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