15 Years Later, This "Hypnotic" Parisian Perfume Is Still #1 on My Vanity—Here's Why

As a beauty editor, I’ve tested hundreds—if not thousands—of fragrances, but I only keep a few on my vanity. They’re the chosen ones—aka the bottles of various shapes and sizes that I’ve deemed worthy enough to be there. You see, I rank my fragrances by the location I keep them. If a fragrance is good, I keep it in a storage box in my closet, so I can access it on occasion. If a fragrance is great, I keep it in a designated drawer for even easier access. It’s only when a fragrance is truly exceptional that I place it in prime view, right atop my vanity. That’s the case with Frederic Malle’s iconic Portrait of a Lady ($100).

Although this perfume was originally launched in 2010, it's as timeless and elegant as ever. I’m not the only one who thinks so. Celebrities like Madonna, Catherine Deneuve, and David Beckham are even fans of it.

To celebrate its 15th anniversary, the brand released a limited-edition bottle in red lacquer—the Maison’s signature color. I was lucky enough to get my hands on one. I was even luckier to connect with the master perfumer who created the iconic perfume, Dominique Ropion, who’s so well known in the fragrance world, he’s been dubbed “the master of flowers.”

The Original Bottle

Personally, I think this has a lot to do with the strong patchouli note. When I smell this fragrance, I get fresh rose—stem, leaf, and all—along with patchouli first. As it dries down on my skin, the blackcurrant, raspberry, and sandalwood notes emerge.

Again, it’s just so elegant and alluring. It makes me want to stroll along the Seine at nightfall, watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle in the distance.

The Limited-Edition 15th Anniversary Bottle

“This perfume has something hypnotic about it—a fierce sensuality with a lot of character,” Ropion says. “The charm of Turkish rose is elevated by a heart of patchouli, nuanced with sandalwood and incense. Very ambery and woody, Portrait of a Lady easily avoids gender categorization despite its name, as the skin of the woman or man who wears it does not react any differently.”

Interestingly, the genesis of Portrait of a Lady began with another Frédéric Malle fragrance: Géranium pour Monsieur. Ropion says Frédéric imagined a feminine version that would retain its amber and balsamic base. “From this foundation, I had the idea of adding an exceptional quantity of Turkish rose absolute and essence. By pairing it with a chypre touch, it gave the fragrance incredible elegance and a lot of character. It was an instant revelation.”

This is one of those rare fragrances that works just as well for a twenty-something as it does for someone in their fifties, sixties, or beyond. “The timelessness of a fragrance,” Ropion says, “[is] a secret every perfumer wishes to unlock! In my view, the key is to create with heart and emotion, to follow intuition rather than trends. Sometimes, this is what allows a scent to resonate more deeply in the collective unconscious. Portrait of a Lady is all about noble materials—true haute parfumerie! At Frédéric Malle, both the ingredients and the story behind the creation are equally essential, each as important as the other.

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