Welcome to Out of Office… Who What Wear UK's chic travel guide that provides you with the most stylish take on any given destination by tapping creatives who know where to stay, what to eat and, more importantly, which items to pack. This month, Who What Wear UK editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans shares her tips for a memorable trip to Val d'Isère in the French Alps.
I’m lucky enough to have been one of those children taken on ski holidays by their eager parents in the nineties. We didn’t do the Louvre or the Empire State, but Dicks Tea Bar and La Folie Douce, we were frequent members. But as I got older, and ski holidays got more expensive (in that, I had to pay for myself), I lost touch with my love of the mountains in winter, and wanted to see more of the world outside Europe. This was all until a few weeks ago, when I put my ski legs to the test once more for a few days to experience the latest edition from hotel group Experimental, in their chalet-hotel in Val d’Isère. Let's just say this: it delivered.
For anyone like me who struggles with winter blues, take reading this as a sign. I've found my cure and it doesn't require a SAD lamp or a countdown to spring. It's simply a trip to the mountains, where winter weather isn't hated, but rather relished and embraced. Sounds cheesy, doesn't it? But trust me, nothing makes you more glad to welcome January than the promise of a ski trip.
Picture this: you wake up (if you’re a really passionate skier, then to the sound of your alarm for the first lift), get yourself a hot breakfast, maybe a couple of coffees and a croissant or two. You then hit the slopes, where you spend a few hours improving your snow plough or parallel turns. Maybe you’ll stop for a spot of lunch. Hot chocolate? Oh go on! Maybe a beer? How about two. Then you do an extra couple of runs for good measure, there’s nothing like a bit of Dutch courage to get you down Le Face. After skiing down the mountain, or some cases, sliding down the mountain, you hit the spa—you have a swim, then make your way for the steam room, sauna and cold plunge pool, maybe you get a massage. You meander back to your room before heading our for a bit of fondue and après ski, and end it with a fantastic night’s sleep in your gigantic bed. Tell me—can life get any better than this?
If you're wondering where the hottest spots of The Alps are, trust me when I say Val d'Isère (or 'Val' as its affectionately known), is up there. And if you're wondering where to stay (spoiler: it's at the Experimental Chalet), where to eat and of course, what to wear on and off the slopes, you've come to the right place.
To enjoy a ski holiday, is to enjoy a stay at one of Experimental group's chalets. Its original chalet outpost is in Verbier, Switzerland, but its latest venture is where I stayed, in Val d'Isère. With interiors by the group's lead interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon, it's an eclectic mix of mid-century-style furniture, fabrics and a colour palette that echo the seventies (and reminded me so much of London's The Standard) and finishes that allude to its alpine location—think branch-like door handles, side tables made from logs and the pièce de résistance, the rounded stonework fireplace in the lobby. There are two restaurants, a bar and a large spa (all of which I get to below), and the rooms are beautifully-designed with Savoyard touches, well-equipped and have picturesque views from every side.
For me, the best thing about Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère, is that whilst it has just over 100 rooms, and has all the offerings of a larger hotel, it possesses the feel of a boutique lodge or chalet. There's so much attention to detail and service that it feels luxury yet unpretentious, and it's clear they've thought about the few hardships and grievances that can come with a ski trip. Take their basement boot and ski room, for example, where not only do you store your equipment, but you can hire it from here too—everything from skis, snowboards, boots, poles, helmets and the like, and you can purchase all the necessary accessories, which saves you a trip to the local ski shop.
Whilst you’d be forgiven for thinking fondue had its moment back home decades ago, going to the Alps without having raclette is said to be a sin. Experimental Val d'Isère's restaurant L'Aiglon is dedicated to fondue, tartiflette and raclette, which is a must. Its other restaurant, L'Aiglon D'or, is a stylish brasserie option that offers both French classics and international favourites, so whether you’re in need of carb-loading after a day of skiing with a burger and fries, or you’re celebrating with champagne and oysters, this menu will match your vibe. But it was perhaps the hotel’s bar, the Experimental Cocktail Club which is the one I have fondest memories of. With its swanky seventies-inspired interiors, top notch playlist (with live DJs playing on the weekends) and a bar full of annoyingly good-looking, charismatic and well-dressed staff, the vibe is ideal for pre-dinner drinks or post-dinner parties, depending on how dedicated you are to the first lift the next morning.
Other options in Val d'Isere include:
L'Apin Val d'Isère:
Sensational, rustic restaurant offering signature French dishes with a modern twist.
Atelier d’Edmond:
If you're splurging, then a reservation at this two MICHELIN star French restaurant is worth trying.
La Folie Douce:
Perhaps the most famous mountain-side club group in the Alps, and the one you've likely seen on TikTok, La Folie Douce is host to many DJs and performers.
Arctic Juice & Cafe:
Cute cafe that offers probably the best barista coffee in town, as well as pastries, and as the name suggests, juices.
Naturally, we can't talk about a vacation to the mountains in winter without talking about skiing (or snowboarding). What makes Val d'Isère so popular is the range of slopes and the conditions. A fellow journalist and expert skier said to me, "If there's snow in France, there's snow in Val." On this trip I was lucky enough to have perfect conditions: ample snow with blue skies and sun every day. If you're a beginner, Les Trois Vallées is a perfect region, with plenty nursery slopes as well as blue and green runs for once you've perfected your snow plough. And if you're advanced like me (read: not at all like me), then you can conquer La Face de Bellevarde, the infamous black that hosted the World Cup and Winter Olympics.
For those hitting Les Alps less interested in winter sports and really looking for R&R, then Spa by Experimental is definitely going to be your main hang out spot. With an indoor pool, sauna, steam room and a Nordic ice bath, you'll hardly get bored. What's more is its menu of Dr. Barbara Sturm facials and massages, some of which have been created specially for those who have exhausted themselves on the slopes.
Because ski gear is designed to protect you from the elements, it’s always been notoriously expensive. Nowadays however, there are brilliant rental platforms and affordable brands offering options that make dressing for the slopes much more accessible. If you want to go designer, my suggestion is to rent. There are a few places to do this, but IMHO, Blanqo is the best because they specialise in ski wear, and have the best selection of brands. Not only can you get chic winter staple brands such as Goldbergh, Perfect Moment and Poivre Blanc it also stocks a range of cool-girl favourites such as Shoreditch Ski Club and Snowroller.
When it comes to being off the slopes, personally, I like to stay on theme. If you’re more of a classic dresser, seek inspiration from pre-millennium Sloane Ranger style, where yuppie types in the '80s and '90s would adopt accessories like sleek tortoiseshell sunglasses and headbands that should be worn with cashmere après jumpers and neat puffer jackets that cinch in the waist. If like me you lean towards a more streetwear vibe, go for loose-fitted silhouettes like cargo trousers and oversized pull-over jackets, that are most commonly adopted by snowboarders, and style them with sportier sunglasses and chunky, rounded snow boots.
