When a designer is appointed to a luxury house, they usually fluctuate between two options. They either choose to move far from the house's original identity and make it entirely their own, or they fully lean into what has been built throughout the years. Since taking the helm at Ferragamo two years ago, Maximilian Davis has managed to marry both options in perfect harmony, and by doing so, he has cemented the brand as one of the highly anticipated of the season. "I've always incorporated different historic eras in my work—eras which feel relatable to me and my heritage," says Davis in the show notes. "At Ferragamo, I've sought out similarities, and the beauty of this brand is that there are so many different stories you can relate to. Every shoe has a meaning behind it. Every shoe has a story."
When it comes to powerful tailoring, Davis is a master at the craft, but this spring collection proved that he also has a penchant for delicate silhouettes. Midi dresses were pleated on the body like Greek sculptures. Minidresses were cut with asymmetrical necklines to look sexy without too much effort. Capelike dresses practically floated down the runway, and trench coats were contorted with crinkles to look lighter than air. Of course, the designer also made sure to include his usual dose of punchy colors by way of tonal blue and red looks, creating a visually satisfying juxtaposition. To go along with every look, the supple leather handbags we've come to know and love from Ferragamo were reimagined with feathers and laser cutouts and made oversize. Most of them were held as clutches as the models paraded down the cream-colored runway.
Many looks seemed to focus on references to the world of dance. On the runway, leotards and shrugs may have been on the nose to some, but Davis was, once again, able to find harmony. He isn't usually one to lean into novelty, but even without the evident ballet references, different looks in the collection seamlessly blended into his vision. Items like feather-adorned accessories, draped and knotted dresses, and funnel jackets still explored this idea of minimal refinement that felt fresh and exciting by way of texture and styling. Ahead, see more on the Ferragamo spring/summer 2025 collection.
Crinkled Drop-Waist Coats
Spring collections always bring an influx of trench coats, but Davis managed to breathe new life into the style with purposely crinkled coats in pale hues featuring a dramatic low-waist tie detail. His fall/winter collections are known for strong outerwear that immediately draws attention, so it was a treat to see him create visual interest in a more subtle manner by warping the fabric so slightly.
The "Off-Duty Ballerina" Looks
Davis wanted to share Ferragamo's past with the world of dance after unearthing an image showcasing a beautiful moment in the brand's history—Salvatore Ferragamo in a fitting with American dancer Katherine Dunham. We've seen plenty of ballet-inspired collections in the past few years, but Davis has invigorated the look with his magical touch. Instead of traditional ballet flats, heeled sandals were tied with satin ribbons up the leg and paired with leotards, billowy opera coats, and draped dresses. To make sure his own design codes weren't lost in the reference, Davis strayed from the quintessential ballerina shades of pink and cream and incorporated contrasting layers in an array of warm- and cool-toned colors.
Punchy Colors and Subtle Shades
Striking shades have become expected during Davis's tenure at Ferragamo, and the designer didn't disappoint by including tonal ensembles in a bright red and cobalt blue to serve as a beautiful contrast against the sea of pale-pink and cream looks. Despite the difference in saturation, the colorful looks didn't feel too out of place. They still incorporated the delicate drapery, coordinating accessories, and perfect tailoring that Davis is known for.
The New Bags to Know
The Hug bag has already cultivated cult-like status, and for 2025, the bags don't fall too far from the tree. "The iconic Hug bag is softened and reconstructed, its single handle and supple leather now gently informing its structure or is adapted into a new clutch," the show notes state. Other notable bags from the collection were large clutches with cinched enclosures designed to look as if they were gently collapsing on themselves, shoulder bags with braided leather straps, feather-adorned clutches to match the feathery pumps, and slouchy bags suspended from chains.
