Bows! Tweed! Skirt Suits! Chanel Reimagines Classic House Codes at Couture Show
News recently broke about Virginie Viard's departure from Chanel. In the three weeks since the announcement, fashion insiders have been buzzing about who will take the next creative director post and how that will shape the future of the fashion house. The fall 2024 haute couture show may or may not provide a glimpse of the direction Chanel will take under a new lead, but the fact that the collection doubled down on classic house codes says something about the current focus and what could be coming next. The collection was the work of the Fashion Creation Studio, according to show notes from the design house, and pays tribute to signature design motifs from the archives reimagined by 150 artisans in the ateliers.
Chanel's couture runway show was held inside the Palais Garnier in Paris, a space that set the tone for the operatic show that both opened and closed with caped looks. Bows were executed in oversize proportions in the form of hair clips worn in nearly every look on the runway, belts tied at the waist, and straps on dresses. Skirt suits were finished with puffed sleeves and ruffled trim, showcased in opulent materials, and embroidered with feathers, beading, and cabochons. Skirt suits took on classic tweed, as did swinging duster coats. The colors—a palette of black, cream, pale pink, gold, silver, fuchsia, and celadon—felt quintessential Chanel.
As we await news of a new artistic director, I'll remain invested in who lands the coveted position. Ahead, see looks from the Chanel fall 2024 haute couture collection.
Kristen Nichols is the Associate Director, Special Projects at Who What Wear with over a decade of experience in fashion, editorial, and publishing. She oversees luxury content and wedding features, and covers fashion within the luxury market, runway reporting, shopping features, trends, and interviews with leading industry experts. She also contributes to podcast recordings, social media, and branded content initiatives. Kristen has worked with brands including Prada, Chanel, MyTheresa, and Luisa Via Roma, and rising designers such as Refine and Tove, and her style has been featured in publications including Vogue.com, Vogue France, WWD, and the CFDA. Before Who What Wear, Kristen began her career at Rodarte, where she worked on assistant styling, photo shoots, and runway shows, and at Allure, where she moved into print and digital editorial. She graduated from the University of Southern California, where she studied art history and business, and currently lives in New York.
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