The Latest Alaïa Collection Transformed Fashion Into Art

For fall 2025, Alaïa showcased its designs in the building of its Paris atelier, transforming the runway into a living gallery. Each piece was a work of art and told a story of empowerment, refinement, and artistry.

The collection, which Creative Director Pieter Mulier noted on Instagram was titled Modern Venus, profoundly inspired by the goddess Venus, a symbol of harmony, femininity, beauty, love, and the essence of the female form. In this captivating collection, Mulier beautifully captured these ideals, weaving them into designs that celebrate each woman's strength, grace, and individuality.

As for what that actually looked like, there were body-hugging tops with sculptural hoods that "concealed and revealed, framing faces like a portrait of a woman, a portrait of beauty," as noted in the brand's press release. There were also voluminous, rolled-waist skirts, metal-sculpted dresses, pleated, fringe-like designs, and many more intriguing looks. This collection was a master class in sculptural form, blending art with fashion in a way that felt both timeless and revolutionary. Ahead, explore the key takeaways from the latest Alaïa show.

At the Paris Atelier 

Following a captivating showcase in New York last season, Alaïa made a heartfelt return to Paris, reconnecting with the brand's rich heritage and creative essence. For the very first time, the brand's atelier served as the backdrop for the collection's unveiling. The decision to present it in the building where Alaïa's legendary designs are meticulously crafted infused the event with an intimate and personal atmosphere. What truly elevated the experience was the stunning set, adorned with bronze sculptures by the talented Dutch artist Mark Manders, whose artistry has long enchanted designer Mulier. Manders’s evocative statues beautifully reflected Azzedine Alaïa’s Tunisian roots while embodying the spirit of the Alaïa woman, creating a harmonious blend of culture and design that resonated deeply throughout the show.

Sculptural Forms

Mulier thoughtfully builds on Alaïa's legacy by deepening the brand's connection to fashion, geography, and sculpture—particularly emphasizing the sculptural aspect. This focus was evident in the face-framing hoods, which Alaïa described on Instagram as "a round boudine around the head worn with a pleated skirt." Voluminous skirts with rolled waists and padding further highlighted the brand's commitment to creating pieces that naturally conform to the body's shape. To echo the topography of the female form, dresses were designed with curved edges made of metal tube structures that were molded onto the body. These innovations, as Alaïa also explained on Instagram, "allowed the jersey to drape around those unique body jewels, creating movement as if the gown was floating."

Padded Shoulders

The collection featured an impressive variety of tops and dresses, each with eye-catching padded shoulder designs. According to the brand, these bold shoulders were intended to "act like armor to shield" and protect a woman's strength and beauty, highlighting her resilience. This aspect also enhanced the shoulders and framed the women's upper bodies in a way that exuded confidence.

Reinterpreted Fringe

Fringe has taken center stage this fashion month. However, instead of the typical strands of fringe hanging from the hems of garments, Alaïa skillfully transformed the concept. In stunning matching skirt sets, fabric was artfully cut to reveal unique pleated fringes that danced gracefully with every step. Standalone maxi skirts also stood out with their multitiered pleats, featuring fringe ingeniously crafted into twisted rolls. These exquisite designs evoked a bold, carefree spirit that energized both the wearer and the onlooker.

Sea Urchin–esque Embellishments

Mulier is often recognized for his minimalist approach, which allows his inherent designs' quality and structure to shine without unnecessary embellishments. However, the latest collection featured a notable departure with the introduction of sea urchin–esque adornments. These intricate yet organic textured shapes appeared throughout the collection, enhancing footwear and the necklines of tops.

Square-Toe Shoes

Anyone who has been a fan of Mulier's work is likely aware of the designer's beautifully constructed footwear (think of Alaïa's coveted ballet flats). However, instead of laser-cut patterns or mesh designs, Alaïa embraced sculptural footwear with square-toe shoes. The collection included square-toe thigh-high boots, pumps, and ankle-strap heels, each designed with precision, transforming the shoes into works of art. The bold, geometric shape of the square toe added an avant-garde touch to the collection and enhanced the brand's artistic vision while offering a modern reinterpretation of classic footwear.