This 107-Year-Old Timepiece Is the Latest Cult Buy

Investment Portfolio is a series where associate director Kristen Nichols takes an in-depth look at the best designer buys and test-drives them, from new seasonal drops to timeless heirloom items.

It’s been dubbed the world’s most iconic watch and the peak of timeless timepieces. Now, more than a century old, the Cartier Tank watch is hotter than ever. It was created by Louis Cartier in 1917, who designed it after the tanks of WWI battlefields, and the aesthetic was so ahead of its time that the 107-year-old timepiece looks just as modern today as it did the moment it was released. Despite its original debut over a century ago, the Tank watch stands out as one of the most in-demand items in the luxury fashion space in 2024. A now-iconic, classic piece that has truly transcended time.

This comes at a moment when more women are entering the watch world in a significant way. While the watch industry is traditionally male-dominated, we've seen women carve out a bigger presence in it both from an expert point of view and a shopping perspective. On social media, in particular, we are seeing a new wave of experts who are educating their audiences on the world of watches and inspiring a new generation of collectors. Among them are Brynn Wallner of Dimepiece, Trang Trinh of Girls O’Clock, and Malaika Crawford of Hodinkee. Their content on TikTok and Instagram is both informative and entertaining, making the watch world a fun, less intimidating place to enter. Cartier, specifically, is a leader within the growing timepiece market with searches more than doubling from 2023 to 2024, according to a report from luxury resale platform Fashionphile.

In recent seasons, we have seen a rising interest in pieces that go beyond trends across all categories, and that includes timepieces. "My biggest takeaway from 2024 is the continued importance of making conscious investments in your wardrobe," product sourcer Gab Waller shared with Who What Wear on the state of luxury shopping in 2024. "Luxury fashion is choosing to purchase items of high quality that will sustain the test of time." This sentiment is echoed by Erica Wright of Sourcewhere. "As luxury prices rise, people are moving beyond trends, investing in pieces with real staying power. Sourcing rare, iconic items reflects a shift from impulse buys to intentional, collectible purchases. Consumers are after pieces that go beyond a season and resonate for years.” The Cartier Tank watch stands out within this shifting market as one of the most iconic and classic timepieces, and shoppers have made it clear they are interested in purchasing this forever item. To take a closer look at the watch, I dove into its history, the celebrities and style icons who have collected it, and test-drove the timepiece myself. Ahead, more on the iconic Cartier Tank watch.

The Cartier Tank watch has a rich history tied to collectors, including celebrities and tastemakers who have been shopping and wearing the timepiece for many decades. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis was given an engraved gold Tank in 1962 from her brother-in-law, Prince Stanislaw Radziwill—a piece later purchased by Kim Kardashian at a Christie's rare watch auction in 2017 for $379,500. Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy regularly wore a Tank watch, which she was often snapped wearing on the streets of New York. Princess Diana owned a Cartier Tank Louis that she was photographed wearing in the '90s. It has also been worn by Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol, Paul Mescal, Jacob Elordi, and Tyler, The Creator.

Searches for Cartier watches were up 104% in 2024, according to Fashionphile. In the report, the Panthère watch saw its value double from 2023 to 2024. The Baignoire watch, too, has seen a similar rise in popularity. The New York Times called the Baignoire timepiece “the talk of the town” as it took hold of the fashion set and as new models were introduced, including the bangle version, monogram designs, and a diamond-encrusted style. During 2024, the Panthère and Baignoire watches maintained their popularity, but the classic Tank timepiece set on a leather band dominated. “Trends and our tastes of late seem to have gone back to the basics and this applies to watches as well,” Tringh shared with Who What Wear on shifts in the watch market in 2024.

Details of the Cartier Tank Must and Cartier Tank Louis watches.

In recent years, timepieces have exploded in the fashion world, which is reflected in sales numbers, new experts, and the rise of online destinations for watch enthusiasts including Wristcheck and Hodinkee. According to Fashionphile, the women’s watch market alone, worth $23.7 billion in 2019, is projected to rise to $26.7 billion by 2027. The report also found that shoppers are skewing younger, with a rise in Gen Z-aged women investing in luxury, analog timepieces.

Louis Cartier created the Tank watch in 1917, taking inspiration from the Renault tanks on the Western Front in WWI and soon after, the first prototype of the Tank watch was presented as a gift to General John J. Pershing. It wasn't until 1919 that the watch made its official market debut. The case shape is inspired by the tank's rectangular silhouette, while the brancards along the side of the case resemble a tank's treads. With its clean, precise lines, and distinctive, elegant aesthetic, the Tank quickly became an investment buy and collector's item. Over the years, the timepiece has inspired numerous variations.

The Cartier Tank family includes a range of models including the Française, Cintrée, Américaine, Must, and Louis. Among the most popular current styles are the Must and Louis dress watches set on a leather band, which both closely resemble the original Tank design. While the two models have a similar appearance, there are some key differences in their design. The Louis takes inspiration from the original Cartier Tank and is designed from precious materials, while the Must is designed with materials that positions it on the market at a more accessible price point.

The Cartier Tank Louis is more than just a watch, it's a category-defining work of art and the most legendary dress watch ever designed. The Tank Louis made its debut in 1922 and most closely resembles the original Tank (now known as the Tank Normale) designed by Louis Cartier. The timepiece set the standard for luxury dress watches and continues to be the blueprint across the category. The Tank Louis has a long history of collectors known for their impeccable taste and eye for classic design. The watch is closely tied to the rise in elegant style which has been connected to growth in timeless investment buys this year.

While the significance of this watch is connected to its rich history, its beauty lies in the design details, craftsmanship, and luxurious materials. It's finished with an 18-karat yellow gold case and buckle, an alligator-skin strap in a rich shade of chestnut, a precious sapphire cabochon, and, of course, the signature elegant dial. The interchangeable strap allows you to personalize the timepiece and customize it for a range of occasions.

Test-driving the Cartier Tank Louis watch proved it has the power to transform the easiest of looks. I styled it with a striped silk button-down shirt and jeans—an outfit that took me everywhere from work appointments to dinner. The dress watch also lends itself to more formal occasions, including anything from a wedding to a cocktail party—and this is the perfect piece to add to an elegant look.

Shop the Cartier Tank Louis watch:

For those looking for a design similar to the Tank Louis watch for a more accessible price point, look to the Tank Must. Nearly identical in design, this style achieves a comparable look for a fraction of the price. This is achieved with less precious materials including steel, calfskin leather, and a synthetic cabochon. The design, however, remains just as timeless and just as impactful.

The Tank Must also features a silver and black colorway that makes it an everyday accessory that works for minimalists and maximalists alike. Perhaps that's why it's earned a coveted spot in the closets of the fashion set. It's a piece that fits in seamlessly with a timeless wardrobe, which is why it's become the timepiece insiders are reaching for the most.

I test-drove the Tank Must with a variety of looks and immediately found that it was an indispensable essential. Paired with a black mini dress, trench coat, and a pochette bag finished with silver hardware, the coordinating metals felt harmonious when paired together. I also styled the watch with a tank top, cigarette pants, and woven leather clutch—all in black—and the addition of the watch made the simple look feel finished and intentional.

Shop the Cartier Tank Must watch:

The Cartier Tank Mini debuted at Watches and Wonders in April 2024 and was released in September 2024. Of all the timepieces that debuted this year, it was easily one of the buzziest. When speaking with Crawford, she shared that the shrunken version was her prediction for the next cult buy.

This attitude was shared across the industry by more experts, who were excited about the micro proportions of the classic timepiece. Though I didn't have the chance to test-drive the Cartier Tank Mini myself, it's already been a popular piece amongst celebrities and watch enthusiasts alike.

"Cartier’s classic Tank came back this year in mini form and it’s poised to take over our social media feeds. The watch measures 16.5mm wide, yet it doesn’t feel any more delicate than its classic Tank Louis counterpart," Trinh shared, when weighing in about the biggest timepieces to know for 2024. "The Tank Mini itself isn’t a new release historically speaking for Cartier, but rather a re-release of the models sold in in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. But clean-cut fashion of today has shifted attention away from flamboyant colors, silhouettes, and runway gimmicks and evolved it into a respect for craftsmanship and—this is where the magic lies—brand history. Similar to Bottega Veneta's intrecciato revival in recent years, this downsized Tank is more than just a miniature, it's a testament to enduring elegance."

Shop the Cartier Tank Must watch: