We're in our savvy spending era. A challenging economy, tightened purse strings and resistance to fast fashion mean every purchase has to work hard.
Fortunately, fine jewellery and watches are made to last. McKinsey & Co's latest State of Fashion report says, "In an uncertain world, consumer discretionary spend will be weighted toward trusted categories and brands. Hard luxury goods—jewellery, watches and leather—will likely be in demand, reflecting their potential investment value in tough economic times."
The inherent value of watches and jewellery means trends move slower, but there are gradual shifts in aesthetics that can instantly update an outfit. So if you’re looking to invest in a forever piece this year, these are the six trends to know.
Layered gold chains aren’t going anywhere, but there’s rising interest in a more minimalist, streamlined alternative: the torque. A solid ring of metal clasped around the base of the neck, torques have their roots in ancient adornments. Meghan Markle is rarely spotted without her Cartier Juste un Clou torque, and Zoë Kravitz has been seen in a torque strung with a six-carat diamond by Jessica McCormack. Tabayer’s Oera necklace wraps the neck with red jasper and a sprinkling of citrines, brown diamonds and sapphires, whilst Bucherer suspends a lush indicolite tourmaline from its gold torque.
"The torque trend has gone full throttle. I’m a maximalist who loves to layer, but even I have been leaning into this trend," says jewellery consultant and founder of The Stax, Victoria Lampley, who commissioned Natalia Pas to create the Sentiment Pendant, which is strung on a simple gold torque. "Torques are seemingly effortless but timeless and elegant," Lampley continues, adding that they complement a wardrobe full of cult pieces from the likes of The Row, Maria McManus and High Sport.
"Torques are proving so popular as they draw attention up to the face," says Kay Barron, fashion director at Net-a-Porter. "They are the easiest way to update an outfit with minimal effort." The gold-plated Elisa choker by Lié Studio is a best seller for the retailer. Collar necklaces are another alternative to the "neck mess" trend; worn lower than a choker, they hit the sweet spot between sexiness and sophistication. Nikos Koulis's beautifully articulated Me necklace features oval diamonds set in satiny brushed gold or charcoal-hued blackened gold, whilst Jade Ruzzo’s Cymbal pendant is strung on a short, slinky rope chain—no other adornment necessary.
Price on request.
Price on request.
Never has a watch excited the fashion crowd as much as Cartier's solid gold Baignoire. Launched in March 2023, the bangle-timepiece hybrid sparked an immediate wait list and renewed interest in jewellery watches. "We have seen a tangible increase in women looking for dress watches and special vintage pieces," says Alyse Chirumbole, director of fine jewellery at Threads Styling, who reports a 900% increase year-on-year for sales of jewellery watches. "Women are looking for more 'feminine', sophisticated watches rather than sports models."
Now available in multiple sizes and gold colours, the Baignoire is still a favourite, along with Bulgari’s Serpenti Tubogas, the padlock-style Cadenas by Van Cleef & Arpels and '70s-inspired designs by Piaget. Vintage pieces are also in demand. "Watches are true statements and reflections of personal style. We have seen a strong interest in chunky gold watches which pair beautifully with hefty jewels," says vintage jewellery specialist Briony Raymond, who wears an '80s gold Rolex alongside a stack of her own Sloan bangles.
Whilst they may once have been saved for special occasions, clients are wearing their dress watches daily. Chirumbole says, "These are definitely everyday pieces. Why own something you can’t enjoy and wear as often as you like?"
Price on request.
Price on request.
The pendulum is swinging away from layers of delicate, pavé-set jewellery towards one-and-done pieces that pack a punch. Tiffany & Co celebrated Elsa Peretti’s legacy by reintroducing the iconic Bone Cuff, a favourite on the red carpet for its sculptural simplicity. Look to costume jewellery brand Goossens for 22-karat-gold-dipped styles that make a similar impact.
"The overall trend in jewellery has been minimal stacking pieces for some time, but now women are ready to make a statement," says Chirumbole. Alison Lou has supersized her classic initial pendant, blowing it up to puffy, cloud-like proportions, and Threads clients have snapped up every drop. According to Barron, "The Saint Laurent effect has led the 'bigger is better' jewellery revolution," and the brand’s doorknocker-style clip-on earrings are proving popular. Giant chain links by Uncommon Matters and Jil Sander’s molten-looking designs are satisfying clients' desire for "huge, sculptural pieces that are like wearable works of art," she adds.
Camille Zarsky, founder of Manhattan jewellery boutique The Seven, agrees. "People want statement pieces that they feel confident in. XXL styles are a nod to the late '80s and early '90s—think Sharon Stone in Casino. We're seeing a resurgence of statement jewellery that captures that same sense of glamour." Lauren Rubinski remains a go-to for playful yet precious oversized designs, whilst Carolina Bucci plays with proportions in her Downtown range of XXL beads.
The earring that launched a thousand dupes, Bottega Veneta’s Drop, has launched in solid 18-karat gold—proof that the style has longevity. "A big factor driving the shift toward XXL jewels is their investment appeal," continues Zarsky. "We've noticed that the $7500 [£5889] to $15,000 [£11,778] range is where clients are focusing their attention, opting for bold pieces that offer impact and long-term value."
At some point in the 2020s, green became everybody’s favourite colour. It’s infiltrated our wardrobes, homes and jewellery boxes too. Emeralds have always been prized for their lush, verdant hues, but there are plenty of other gemstones that cater to the insatiable appetite for green, from muted sage to in-your-face "Brat" green.
"Green is an incredibly warm, appealing colour which symbolises life, health, hope and renewal. It works so beautifully with yellow gold and diamonds," says Lucy Crowther, founder of Minka Jewels, whose chunky rings celebrate the myriad shades of green found in emeralds, tourmalines and sapphires. Sophie Karg, founder of By Pariah, says customers gravitate towards her green aventurine and moss agate stacking rings and pebble pendants. "I think people are looking for ways to connect more with nature, to embrace more mindful and sustainable lifestyles, and green stones really speak to this," she says.
When Fernando Jorge launched his Celestial range of star sign pendants, it was the green jade discs that the fashion crowd gravitated towards. Also, look to new designer Dilhan’s sensuous streams of green aventurine, Marli’s chrysoprase-tipped Cleo bracelet or Ananya’s jade Chakra bracelet to get your daily dose of greens.
Green watch dials are increasingly popular too, from the malachite dial of the La D de Dior to the soft sage of the Tag Heuer Carrera 36mm. And with its gold bracelet and aventurine dial, the special-edition Bulgari Tubogas designed with Tadao Ando ticks off two trends in one.
Call it the Chemena Kamali effect, but since the creative director’s Chloé debut in February, boho is back. Our penchant for free-spirited femininity is a "pushback against the streamlined, monochromatic, minimal dressing we’ve seen for a while," says Chirumbole. Natural materials and '70s-inspired designs complement coin belts and ruffled blouses. Joelle Kharrat’s Totem pendants combine ebony with gold and gem-set elements, and are on many a jewellery insider's wish list. "There’s something so beautifully simple about jewellery that feels like a slice of the environment; one-of-a-kind and not easily replicated," says Lampley, who recommends Lisa Eisner’s foraged gold nuggets and Cam Studio’s gold beads cast from hand-sculpted clay. "They have the most stunning and earthy patina," she says.
"Boho jewellery is back in the spotlight," agrees Zarsky, who names Beyoncé, Sienna Miller and Kate Moss as poster girls of the trend. "There is something ultra-earthy about boho, and the jewellery really lends itself to cool materials—lots of cord, suede, turquoise and large medallions. We're seeing a tonne of demand for it." Designers such as Beck Jewels, Ileana Makri and Jenna Blake offer plenty of styles that cater for Boho 2.0. "Lately, customers have been buying my beaded necklaces for a less serious look," says Jenna Grosfeld, founder of Jenna Blake. "The colourful Heishi beads with slight imperfections ground an otherwise fancy ensemble and subtly convey that the person wearing them does not take themselves too seriously. That’s what boho is all about; playfulness and the permission to experiment."
Silvia Furmanovich’s wooden marquetry butterflies, flowers and bangles look right at home against a wardrobe of natural tones. And, says Chirumbole, "There is no one quite like Jacquie Aiche for boho jewellery—she is truly the original when it comes to that perfect combination of carefree Californian style that’s still very glam."
Forget your preconceptions about men's jewellery, because guys are embracing diamonds, gemstones and pearls like never before. Gone (mostly) are the silver-and-turquoise pieces beloved by the Aidan Shaws of the noughties; instead, men are experimenting with diamond rivières and strands of pearls. Pharrell Williams was an early adopter of pearl necklaces, and his penchant for pearls is reflected in his Titan range for Tiffany & Co. Justin Timberlake reached for his pearls (which are said to symbolise innocence) at his DUI hearing, whilst Usher graced the pages of The Cut magazine in the same month styled in three delicate diamond rivières.
"A more fluid approach to masculinity, which has been apparent across ready-to-wear for several seasons, has changed how men look at jewellery. Men are becoming more open and confident in accessorising themselves," says George Archer, buying manager at Mr Porter, which launched a dedicated fine jewellery category in 2021. Men are buying at a higher price point than ever before; searches for diamonds have increased by 550% over the past six months, whilst searches for gold chains have increased by 602%. "They like the idea that they are investing in an heirloom which will retain its value in the future," he adds.
Brands such as David Yurman, Shay and Greg Yuna, which specialise in diamond fine jewellery, are popular with Mr Porter customers, who gravitate towards chunky chains and solid, short necklaces, which they like to stack and layer, mixing metals and stones, reports Archer. Tennis bracelets are increasingly popular too—streamlined styles by Kolours Jewelry pair perfectly with a power watch. Male magpies have more options than ever thanks to new capsule collections from designers beloved by the jewellery cognoscenti such as Nikos Koulis and VRAM.
