Pillbox Hats! Soft Caps! 2024 Is Set to Be the Year of the Hat
We've been deep in discussions about how we have entered a new age of elegant fashion. Silhouettes are shifting with the onset of A-line shapes, cigarette pants, and nipped-in jackets. The popularity of pieces like evening coats and tailored skirt sets is starting to make fashion feel more mature and grown-up. Accessories, too, are taking on more refined forms with the arrival of sophisticated bags, long leather gloves, and satin heels. Designers and fashion insiders alike are also endorsing hats in such a significant way that we are predicting 2024 will be the year of the hat.
What is noteworthy about the hats on the runways and the street style scene is how different they feel from everyday styles like baseball caps. Designers, instead, are making the case for silhouettes that feel like they're plucked from another era entirely. They recall a time when pillbox hats were de rigueur, milliners were on speed dial, and there was a sense of formality about getting dressed up before leaving the house. During London Fashion Week, Net-a-Porter buying manager Lydia Zacharis made the case that hats are also bringing personality pieces back to our wardrobes, and we happen to agree. With all of the conversations about quiet luxury in the past year and the influx of pared-back minimalism in our closets, it's about time to add some personality back to our wardrobes! Hats just may be the starting point.
During the spring/summer 2024 season, Pieter Mulier sent models down the Alaïa runway in flat, boxy hats that rested on top of their heads. The Row endorsed soft, sculpted driver-style hats in shades of white and onyx. Prada—always a barometer of what is next—dressed all 47 models on the runway in wide, headband-style caps.
Soft, sculpted wool hats are a key buy—endorsed by The Row and on the street style scene.
Structured shapes like this flat-top hat from Alaïa are set to dominate in 2024.
Jumping forward to the fall/winter 2024 collections, Altuzarra made the case for pillbox hats, and Prada introduced styles designed with sculpted velvet and colorful feathers. Schiaparelli brought out a new version of the brand's surrealist shoe hat, and Chloé made the case for pillowy headbands. Fforme doubled down on soft knit caps, and Chanel sent dramatic straw hats with turned-back rims down the runway.
The pillbox hats at Altuzarra are setting the tone for how we will see the accessory in the coming year.
You may already have beanies in your closet, but we're seeing the soft hats styled more like swim caps.
Perhaps one of the most interesting observations about the hats we're seeing on the runways is how they are translating to looks on social media feeds and the street style scene. Fashion insiders have adopted hats into their wardrobes in ways that range from casual and low-key to sophisticated and nostalgic. The message is clear: No matter how they're styled, these personality pieces are set to define fashion in 2024.
Kristen Nichols is the Associate Director, Special Projects at Who What Wear with over a decade of experience in fashion, editorial, and publishing. She oversees luxury content and wedding features, and covers fashion within the luxury market, runway reporting, shopping features, trends, and interviews with leading industry experts. She also contributes to podcast recordings, social media, and branded content initiatives. Kristen has worked with brands including Prada, Chanel, MyTheresa, and Luisa Via Roma, and rising designers such as Refine and Tove, and her style has been featured in publications including Vogue.com, Vogue France, WWD, and the CFDA. Before Who What Wear, Kristen began her career at Rodarte, where she worked on assistant styling, photo shoots, and runway shows, and at Allure, where she moved into print and digital editorial. She graduated from the University of Southern California, where she studied art history and business, and currently lives in New York.