The nostalgia-trend cycle which brought the office siren back to the workplace and tradwife dressing into the home is set to stop by the British Isles in 2025. Brace yourself for the return of Cool Britannia.
The term was coined in the 1990s when London was the coolest place to be. Now, as Britpop fans gear up for Oasis's upcoming reunion and with Pulp and Blur fresh off their own revival tours in 2023; with football terraces becoming the new runways, Chanel staging its Metiers d’art show in Manchester and Burberry’s new CEO putting the focus back on its British heritage (via the classic check and campaigns starring homegrown icons Olivia Colman and original Burberry girl Cara Delevingne), everything that made Britain cool in the nineties and early noughties is going to be trending again. There are even rumours of a Topshop retail revival!
Be it parkas and party dresses (as seen at Burberry and Prada for spring/summer 2025) to tea dresses and vintage shoulder bags, the Brits are back. Whether it was the thrown-together looks that were a lesson in true personal style or the female-fronted Britpop bands that inspired a generation, let's explore what shaped Cool Britannia.
The term was coined in the 1990s when London was the coolest place to be. Now, as Britpop fans gear up for Oasis's upcoming reunion and with Pulp and Blur fresh off their own revival tours in 2023; with football terraces becoming the new runways, Chanel staging its Metiers d’art show in Manchester and Burberry’s new CEO putting the focus back on its British heritage (via the classic check and campaigns starring homegrown icons Olivia Colman and original Burberry girl Cara Delevingne), everything that made Britain cool in the nineties and early noughties is going to be trending again. There are even rumours of a Topshop retail revival!
How London Became the Capital of Cool:
The mid-nineties were known as the era when our pop culture, music, art and fashion became household names. Everyone from the Spice Girls to Stella McCartney, Hugh Grant and Oasis were being worn, played, watched and embraced, setting the stage for a new wave of British cultural influence. This influence merged the sounds and styles of the North (think "Madchester"'s late-nineties dance music scene and its uniform of baggy clothing, seen today in the shift towards wide-leg jeans and oversized tops), with the thrifted finds of the art-school South. The aesthetic was ruled by being authentic in your style, breaking away from the polished glossiness of L.A., New York and Paris at the time. This also explains why it was such a hit with younger generations both then and now.
Next summer is set to feel like a case of déjà vu as all things Brit (sorry, Charli XCX, but "Brat" is officially over) become cool once again. Britpop and the wave of Cool Britannia which surrounded the genre will celebrate its 30th anniversary—1995 marked the height of the battle between Manchester-born-and-bred Oasis and fun-loving Blur as they fought for the top spot of the charts with "Roll With It" (Oasis) and "Country House" (Blur), with Blur ultimately winning the Battle of Britpop that year.
Now, with Britain’s bad boys of rock getting back together for a world tour, there's set to be a patriotic trend for all things British, with homegrown fashion designers and brands leading the nostalgia trip that defined a decade. Take Liam Gallagher, who wasted no time partnering with Newcastle-brand Berghaus, becoming the frontman for its Icons campaign in an updated version of the classic Trango anorak.
We should also get ready to see the Union Jack flag everywhere as it's re-purposed as a trending motif. At the time, the fashion crowd couldn’t get enough of the national pride it symbolised, wearing it on graphic T-shirts, bandanas, record bags and strappy slip dresses. It was most famously adopted by Geri Halliwell and her micro-minidress at the 1997 BRIT Awards in 1997.
One of the first (of many) sightings of a re-purposed high-fashion Union Jack was spotted on Doja Cat at this year’s Wireless festival. She chose a hand-painted corset and frock coat by emerging designer Dilara Findikoglu, and then, at the most recent Fashion Awards in London, Model of the Year winner Alex Consani also wore a minidress draped in the British flag by the same designer. Watch this space, as Findikoglu’s work is reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood, with a strong focus on female rebellion, much like the Ladettes—whose outspoken attitude made them infamous in the nineties.
The (Br)it Crowd:
The nineties were also a time when London was the epicentre of a thriving cultural scene, building a reputation for spawning movements which encouraged the media to shine a light on the It girls and boys—socialites and party people who gave main character energy and were featured daily on the front pages of the tabloid press. They taught us how to dress, where to be seen and who to be seen with long before social media took over mass culture.
In the mid-nineties, the economy and consumer sentiments were up due to the opening of the Channel Tunnel and the relaxation of licensing laws meaning bars could open past 11 p.m. Artists, musicians and designers were invited by then Prime Minister Tony Blair to a reception at Downing Street, as he attempted to woo the leaders of youth culture and become the first "rock 'n' roll" PM. British talent became so sought-after that there was an exodus of several young designers from the UK. John Galliano, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen defected to Paris for creative director roles at the legendary fashion houses of Christian Dior, Chloé and Givenchy.
And our designers are still being tapped by big brands. The likes of Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art continue to encourage rebellious thinking from their students which has seen Maximilian Davis head up Ferragamo, Seán McGirr take the reins at Alexander McQueen and Jonathan Anderson celebrate 10 years at Loewe.
Outside of the departures, the UK still had an enviable It crowd who would frequent The Groucho Club, Tramp (Naomi Campbell and socialite Tara Palmer-Tomkinson were regularly spotted outside, and later, Prince William) and the Met Bar. Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin (known as The YBAs, or Young British Artists) were breaking the rules of the once stuffy art world by creating artwork around preserved sharks and messy beds, and the likes of Kate Moss, the Gallagher brothers, Patsy Kensit, Meg Matthews, Sophie Dahl, Damon Albarn, Jarvis Cocker, Fat Boy Slim and Jodie Kidd could often be found partying until dawn and front row at London Fashion Week.
In a full-circle moment, Liam and Noel Gallagher's children are now regulars during the show season. Lennon and Gene (who have taken up the family business and are both in bands), as well as Anais, were recently seated front row at the S/S 25 shows of Burberry, JW Anderson, Chloé and Stella McCartney.
Amidst the Rise of the Megabrands, Britain Kept It Cool:
Over in Milan, New York and Paris, there was an ushering in of both high-octane and minimalist glamour from mega brands led by Tom Ford at Gucci, Gianni Versace at Versace and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton—who introduced the luxury house’s first prêt-à-porter collection in 1998.
Back in the UK—on stage and on the cover of magazines—fashion was a secondary thought, as bands would often perform in their everyday clothes, and though the Britpop music scene was predominantly male-dominated, female-fronted bands such as Elastica, Catatonia and Garbage brought an appealing nonchalance to their stage style. Cropped graphic tees and sleeveless fitted tanks were favourites amongst lead singers and were often paired with leather biker jackets and low-slung, boot-cut Levi’s.
The early beginnings of boho-chic (which would be revived again in the early noughties by Sienna Miller and Kate Moss) could be found in the knitted, fringed dresses and embroidered denim which became a solid festival look of Catatonia's Cerys Matthews. These singers projected a cool indie-girl attitude simply because their personal style made them feel relatable—an important factor for their discerning audience who sat slightly outside the mainstream. Think less Spice Girls more Sleeper frontwoman Louise Wener. Even Kylie Minogue (known as the UK’s honorary Pop Princess) went for a more experimental sound with her Impossible Princess album, whilst in her video for "Did It Again", she became SexKylie, CuteKylie, IndieKylie and DanceKylie.
Whether you hit high-street favourites such as Topshop, Miss Selfridge, Jane Norman, or French Connection, or you favoured Camden market, Shelly’s Shoes and Patrick Cox for off-beat footwear the lack of access to the internet or live-streamed runway shows meant that British girls formed their own ideas around their style codes which often aligned with the bands, It girls, or celebrities they followed. It was a time to be unfiltered with the way we dressed, when Barry M glitter nails and charity shop leather jacket finds were paired with lace-trimmed slip dresses and jeans, with a Nokia flip phone on a One 2 One contract peeking out of our back pockets.
What Can We Expect from Cool Britannia 2.0?
1. Partying in Parkas
Parkas at Burberry S/S 25.
The first sighting of the Cool Britannia trend was seen at the most recent runway shows during London and Milan’s fashion weeks. The parka (inspired by Oasis, no doubt) and party dress were an emerging styling trick at Burberry, Prada and No21. Set to evolve the barn jacket, it’s not only practical but versatile, so opt for a classic khaki shade or a statement pop of colour for festival season.
2. Party Princess Vs. Ladette
Hailey Bieber wears Nike Air Max 95.
The Ladette was a popular persona of the '90s. One part tomboy and one part punk princess, being feminine took on a new form by breaking taboos when Girl Power ruled the airwaves. Outspoken presenters and rock band frontwomen tapped into a uniform of pretty layers dressed down with denim and streetwear accessories such as Nike Air Max trainers.
3. Say It Loud
Bella Hadid wears a baby tee.
Baby tees have been back in the cultural zeitgeist for a few years now thanks to Gen Z's revival of all things '90s, but the return of Britpop will see album covers and retro branding as statement graphics on the cropped, tight tees, with the Union Jack worn as a patriotic statement during festival season.
4. Wide Strides
Wide-leg jeans at Stella McCartney S/S 25.
Channel the era's love for all things baggy with a pair of wide-leg jeans (paired with the must-have baby tee for the de-facto uniform)—especially as the comfort factor makes them universally appealing. The wider, the better, and consider dressing them up with an embellished camisole or tank top for a stage-to-secret-after-party look.
5. Snake-Print Loafers
A Fashion Week guest in snake-print loafers.
Channel your inner Jarvis Cocker and take inspiration from the must-have footwear style of the '90s: the "Wannabe" loafer by Patrick Cox. Ensure it’s in statement snake print and squared off at the toe to replicate the look.
