The '80s Trend You Feared Is Making a Major Comeback This Spring
Everywhere we look, the '80s are having a renaissance. From bold maximalist earrings and chunky bangles to nipped-waist blazers and structured tweed jackets, it's hard to outrun the decade's excess aesthetic right now. And while some items have been more readily accepted by the masses, others are still considered shocking news in 2023.
Once such pot-stirring style is bubble hems, and I'm sorry to say it, but they too are about to make a major comeback. We saw the first inklings of their return in the 2023 collections with several bubble-hem skirts and dresses from Khaite and Prada, but for spring 2024, designers went full-force on the voluminous silhouettes, so consider this your official warning: No matter your personal feelings on them, you're going to be seeing a lot more of the balloon-like shapes at the turn of the year.
I don't blame you if you associate the floofy shapes with an awkward middle-school dance or the wardrobe in 13 Going on 30, but I can assure you that the styles coming down the pipeline are much more sophisticated than they are retro. At Schiaparelli and Altuzarra, two-piece skirt sets were given the puffed-up treatment for maximum drama, but at Bally and Bottega Veneta, bubble hems came in the form of softer draping on dresses and skirts. Personally, I love the look of a bubble hem on a minidress with tights and heels for a holiday ensemble, but regardless, I'm sharing all the runway and influencer imagery of the trend so you can see for yourself.
Khaite S/S 23 was the first time I recall seeing bubble hems in a way that I didn't completely hate. In fact, the soft satin fabric the designer chose for this immediately made the pieces feel approachable, and the sleek styling with minimalist pieces made them look downright chic.
How stunning is this gathered-waist top? It reminds me of the fabric technique used in Schiaparelli's haute couture F/W 23 collection seen below.
While an haute couture collection rarely translates to an everyday wardrobe, I love how this particular look showcases the drama of the '80s silhouette. And who could forget how pregnant Sienna Miller stunned in the look when she wore it on the red carpet at Vogue World: London.
This opulent red-velvet jacket is the definition of a statement piece.
Riffing on the pillars of balletcore, this combination of a bubble hem and ballet flats is sublime.
To wear with relaxed jeans for a dressed-down take on the trend.
Altuzarra doubled down on the bubble-hem trend, sending out multiple iterations in its S/S 24 show that ranged from this exuberant tube dress to satin skirt sets.
I plan on wearing this pick with sheer tights and point-toe heels for a fall night at the ballet.
Bottega Veneta took a softer approach with this look that features a gathered bubble-hem midi skirt and simple Henley tee.
Emulate the Bottega look above by wearing this skirt from sustainable Scandi label Ninety Percent.
The ribbed-knit tank on this dress offsets the drama of its silk taffeta skirt, making the mini oddly low-key.
Wearing bubble hems is all about contrasting their volume with a slim-fitting pair of tights or leggings like this.
I love the idea of styling this with a nipped-waist blazer so the skirt and cuffs peek out.
Bally's take on bubble hems is decidedly more low-key, combining a gathered minidress and simple riding boots.
If I'm honest, I think about the micro bubble hem on this Jacquemus jacket at least once a week.
New York–based label Aknvas showed support for the '80s movement with this striking red minidress in its S/S 24 show.
When styling a voluminous skirt, keep things streamlined on top with something simple.
The way MSGM styled a bubble-hem skirt with a structured blazer is, to me, S/S 24 perfection.
These would look very directional peeking out from underneath a big blazer, per the above styling idea.
When you mix '90s minimalism with the trend—like Altuzarra did here for its S/S 24 show—it makes it much more elevated.
Even a hint of a bubble hem like the under-layer on this Tory Burch skirt goes a long way.
Gen Zers are styling their bubble hems with athletic sneakers for a cool contrast.
Anna is an editor on the fashion team at Who What Wear and has been at the company for over five years, having begun her career in the Los Angeles office before relocating to New York, where she's currently based. Having always been passionate about pursuing a career in fashion, she built up her experience interning at the likes of Michael Kors, A.L.C., and College Fashionista before joining the team as a post-graduate assistant editor. Anna has penned a number of interviews with Who What Wear's cover stars over the years, including A-listers Megan Fox, Issa Rae, and Emma Chamberlain. She's earned a reputation for scouting new and emerging brands from across the globe and championing them to our audience of millions. While fashion is her main wheelhouse, Anna led the launch of WWW Travels last year, a new lifestyle vertical that highlights all things travel through a fashion-person lens. She is passionate about shopping vintage, whether it be at a favorite local outpost or an on-the-road discovery, and has amassed a wardrobe full of unique finds. When she's not writing, you can find her shooting street imagery on her film camera, attempting to learn a fourth or fifth language, or planning her next trip across the globe.
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