An Aesthetician Explains the Best Way to Shop for K-Beauty If You're Acne-Prone

It's no secret that I love K-beauty. In fact, some of my all-time favorite products hail from Korea (shout-out to Beauty of Joseon's Relief Sun SPF). But a recent visit to my aesthetician Varuni Palacios's office made me consider a few things before buying more K-beauty products in bulk like I usually do. While she also loves K-beauty, she said there are a few things to keep in mind—especially if you're acne-prone like me.

Don't worry, if you do struggle with breakouts and like to use Korean skincare, I'm definitely not saying you should stop doing that. In fact, there are plenty of amazing Korean brands that cater specifically to acne-prone skin. The only thing Palacios recommends is being more mindful of the ingredient list. I've been guilty of slathering on a heavier K-beauty cream or cleansing oil in the past, and if you're going through treatment, you'll want to be extra cautious of that. For everything Palacios told me, keep reading. She shared her expert insight below.

Why K-Beauty Is So Popular in the U.S.

TBH, it's not a huge mystery why K-beauty products constantly go viral on social media. There's so much to love about them. Palacios explained exactly why it's so great from an aesthetician's point of view.

"I love that K-beauty principles have become mainstream when it comes to the way we care for our skin," she says. "Korean skincare is known for its comprehensive and layered approach to skincare, emphasizing hydration, prevention, and maintaining a healthy skin barrier."

"In the U.S., we look to South Korea as a prominent leader in the global skincare market and have K-beauty to thank for the constant pursuit of innovation that has changed the way we treat skin in the treatment room and at home. I'm talking about multi-step routines that include double-cleansing; use of novel ingredients in product formulations like spicules (my current favorite); fermentation technology; advanced delivery systems (like microencapsulation and nanotechnology) that make ingredients more bioavailable and effective; and an exquisite focus on texture and experience, especially when it comes to serums, ampoules, sheet masks, and something no other can beat: SPF. We also love K-beauty because when compared to the leading U.S. luxury skincare brands we know and love, it’s much more affordable."

Board-certified dermatologist and Lightsaver founder David Kim, MD, also shared what he loves about the Korean philosophy: "K-beauty focuses on ingredients and routines, and it is perfectly aligned with the U.S. philosophy. It's not looking for a quick fix but adopting a routine that will hydrate, brighten, and restore the skin. It's all about prevention and maintenance."

What to Keep in Mind Before Buying K-Beauty If You're Acne-Prone

Even though Palacios is a strong supporter of Korean skincare and its philosophy, she says there are a few things to remember if you're acne-prone or deal with a skin condition. "Despite all that K-beauty has to offer, there are some important factors for consideration when deciding how deep to dive into it, especially if and when experiencing more problematic concerns like acne, rosacea, inflammatory conditions, and pigmentation," she explains. "Korean skincare often prioritizes hydration, brightening, and anti-aging. However, these focuses might not address prevalent skin issues in the U.S. like acne, acne scars, or hyperpigmentation, which often need different ingredients and treatments, or specific care for product formulation without pore-clogging ingredients. Korean beauty standards also differ culturally and may not immediately meet the diverse needs of the U.S. market. Korean skincare products are designed for the Korean climate, environment, and diet, which differ significantly from those in the U.S. Consequently, our skin in the U.S. has different needs."

Another thing Palacios says to consider is potential formula changes once a product reaches the U.S. "While Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has stricter product regulations than the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), international products entering the U.S. market often require formulation changes, potentially altering their original appeal," she explains. "And then there is product stability, shelf life, and authenticity to consider, which depend on factors like shipping origin, transit time, varying climates experienced during shipping, and reseller information."

When it comes down to it, Palacios mostly wants to stress being a conscious consumer. Some of these critiques aren't limited to the Korean skincare market—there are plenty of brands here in the U.S. that use comedogenic ingredients that you should also be aware of. The bottom line is that Palacios wants you to know about the ingredients in the products you use and whether they're good for your specific skin. As a pro tip, she recommends utilizing tools like Acne Clinic's pore-clogging ingredient checker or NYC aesthetician Sofie Pavitt's similar tool to make sure your product isn't causing you any new breakouts. "Everyone is different, and to each their own, but my own personal rule of thumb is to turn to K-beauty for hydrating, barrier-restoring products and turn to clinical skincare (that’s clinically trialed and tested for efficacy) for treatment-based products and problematic concerns like acne, rosacea, and pigmentation. But always read your ingredients and know what's pore-clogging. No blanket statements or one-size-fits-all approach—everything in moderation, and most of all, if you like it, I love it."

My Thoughts on K-Beauty as an Acne-Prone Beauty Editor

As a beauty editor who loves to try products, it's hard not to pick up something new from my favorite K-beauty retailers every week. While I'm definitely heeding Palacios's advice on checking for heavier ingredients, I also wanted to share that I've had a great experience with Korean skincare—even though my skin is extremely sensitive (borderline reactive) and acne-prone. I've even used a few formulas that have traditionally pore-clogging ingredients, but they've never caused me any new breakouts. Everyone's skin is different, and if you do struggle with breakouts, you might need to get to know your skin extremely well to know what ingredients work for it and which ones don't.

I love that Korean skincare focuses on repairing the skin barrier, too. I realized that most of my skin issues stemmed from barrier damage, and the more I healed it, the less I broke out. Although Palacios says to proceed with caution and always check the ingredients before using something, we chatted about which K-beauty formulas we both love for acne-prone skin and other products that work extremely well. For all our favorites, take a look below.