Meet the Trending Korean Skincare Ingredient That Can Soothe Acne, Redness, and Sun Damage
Korean skincare has a stellar reputation, and it's for good reason. It's at the forefront of innovation, constantly creating effective formulas that treat the skin without causing excess irritation or inflammation. It also introduces other geographies to tried-and-true ingredients. Take snail mucin as an example. What was once a relatively unknown ingredient in the U.S. has recently exploded in popularity, thanks to its hydrating, soothing, and plumping abilities.
Well, there's yet another ingredient hitting the U.S. skincare market, and like snail mucin, it has been used in Korean formulations for, well, forever. We're talking about something called heartleaf extract. The multitasking ingredient can soothe acne, reduce redness, and even work magic on sun damage. Ahead, learn everything you need to know about this buzzy ingredient straight from a top dermatologist and esthetician. Then, see the best heartleaf skincare products.
According to Alicia Yoon, Korean skincare expert and founder and CEO of Peach & Lily, "Heartleaf is a type of plant native to Asia called Hottuynia Cordata (eosongcho in Korean). Heartleaf extract has been used in Korean skincare for decades and has garnered more awareness and popularity over the last few years."
Part of its growing popularity is due to its long list of skin benefits (more on that in a minute). The other part is due to K-beauty's worldwide reputation and the way social media promotes it. "It's become more well-known Stateside with the growing love for Korean skincare as well as the massive awareness TikTok has created around this ingredient as a hero Korean skincare ingredient," Yoon says.
Did you know that the ingredient has a history in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and Korean herbal medicinal practices? Yoon says heartleaf has been used for centuries as both a digestible and topical ingredient. "It's packed with flavonoids and has long been celebrated for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-bacterial properties," she says. "It's loved as a skincare ingredient for visibly calming irritated skin, reducing signs of redness, helping curb breakouts, and helping balance skin."
Brendan Camp, MD, FAAD, double-board certified dermatologist of MDCS Dermatology agrees, saying, "The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of heartleaf make it useful for treating skin conditions associated with inflammation, such as eczema, acne, and rosacea. The botanical is also thought to be an effective humectant."
Make no mistake—heartleaf can benefit all skin types. Both Yoon and Camp say it's typically well-tolerated with a low risk for reactions. According to Yoon, "It's especially beneficial to those who have sensitive, reactive, or irritated skin."
Camp agrees, saying that while it's generally well-tolerated, it's still a good idea to perform a patch test as with any new ingredients or products. After all, it's better to be safe than sorry when experimenting with skincare.
10 Heartleaf Skincare Products
Yes, Tatcha's iconic Water Cream contains heartleaf extract! "A lightweight moisturizer ideal for oily skin, this product improves the skin barrier and refines the appearance of pores," Camp says.
Camp's next recommendation is these clarifying toner pads. "Formulated with 77% heartleaf extract, these toner pads remove excess oil and gently exfoliate dead skin cells to reduce blackheads, whiteheads, and breakouts."
Yoon says this Peach & Lily serum she created is the ultimate skin-soother (trust us—we're big fans). "It's clinically proven to restore the skin barrier within minutes and includes a breakthrough formula of heartleaf, calcium (which is vital for a healthy skin barrier), colloidal oat, ceramides, tons of good fats, and antioxidants," she says. "I have eczema and sensitive skin and this serum calms my skin so rapidly and effectively. I keep backups of this serum at all times."
Korean skincare brand Goodal is one of our newfound favorites. It offers a wide range of heartleaf-infused products, including a skin-quenching toner that's unfortunately out of stock on Amazon right now (keep checking for a restock, though—it's worth it). Still, you can get in on the heartleaf buzz with this moisturizing serum. It blankets the skin in soothing, redness-reducing moisture.
Since the aforementioned liquid toner is currently out of stock, we'll be using these toner pads until further notice. They're just as soothing and moisturizing.
This is a sheet mask soaked in soothing green-tea and heartleaf extract. Yoon recommends this product when you need a fast-acting treatment. "It's a hydrating and super-calming, fast-acting treat for skin," she says. Use it "whenever [your] skin is feeling off or irritated."
Yoon recommends this product because "it's delightful to apply with an instantly soothing feeling, and the bevy of calming ingredients including heartleaf deliver visibly calmer and more balanced skin rapidly."
This moisturizer contains 75% heartleaf extract, along with other soothing ingredients like calendula, centella asiatica (aka tiger grass), and jojoba oil.
Let these toner pads sit on your skin for a few minutes every day to achieve a calm, hydrated complexion.
This five-piece sheet-mask set delivers instant, ultra-soothing hydration.
This toner is like a tall drink of water for parched skin. It's made with 77% heartleaf extract that's grown and harvested in Korea. It's the ultimate skin soother.
Kaitlyn McLintock is a Beauty Editor at Who What Wear. She has 10 years of experience in the editorial industry, having previously written for other industry-leading publications, like Byrdie, InStyle, The Zoe Report, Bustle, and others. She covers all things beauty and wellness-related, but she has a special passion for creating skincare content (whether that's writing about an innovative in-office treatment, researching the benefits of a certain ingredient, or testing the latest and greatest at-home skin device). Having lived in Los Angeles, California, and Austin, Texas, she has since relocated back to her home state, Michigan. When she's not writing, researching, or testing beauty products, she's working through an ever-growing book collection or swimming in the Great Lakes.
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