As a Brown woman, I was always a little bit hesitant to try at-home laser hair removal. Unfortunately, it turns out skincare, haircare, and other beauty items aren't the only spaces where Black skin is left out of the conversation. At-home IPL devices often aren't safe to use on darker skin tones. Many of them cater only to lighter skin tones because they rely on contrast between the hair and skin in order to work.
There's a new kid on the block, however, that set out to change that. Epilaser just released its 980 device for darker skin tones, and it's quick, painless, and super easy to use. I gave it a try and got a little more information about why at-home laser hair removal is so tough for us Black and Brown folks. If you've been looking for a solution, too, look no further. I'm sharing everything you need to know about at-home laser hair removal for dark skin tones below.
What Is an IPL Device and How Does It Work?
You may already be familiar with the laser hair removal process. While doing treatments in-office is great, it can definitely start to add up after a while if you're dealing with stubborn hair follicles. That's why a lot of folks opt for an at-home IPL device. Those can also be great and effective but, interestingly, I recently learned that they don't work for all skin tones.
Epilaser CMO Sindy Von Ziegesar explained a bit more about IPL and what exactly it does. "At-home IPL (intense pulsed light) devices use broad-spectrum light to target the melanin in hair follicles, heating them up to disrupt the hair growth cycle," she explains. "Over time, this helps reduce hair regrowth for smoother skin. Most devices recommend consistent use over several weeks to see visible results. While they may not always be as powerful as some in-office lasers, IPL can still be highly effective when used properly and consistently."
This sounds great in theory, but if you're a skin type five or six on the Fitzpatrick scale, some devices out there shouldn't be used. In fact, I've opened the box on an IPL device myself that warned not to use it if you fall into one of those two types. More on that below.
Why Are Some Laser Hair Removal Devices Unsafe for Dark Skin Tones?
It's definitely disappointing (and frustrating) that a lot of at-home laser devices aren't quite there yet for darker skin tones. Ziegasar says that most IPL devices rely on contrast between skin tone and hair color to target the follicles safely. "On darker skin tones, the device can’t easily distinguish between the pigment in the hair and the pigment in the skin, which can lead to the light being absorbed by the skin itself – causing irritations, burns, or discoloration," she explains. "Because of this, many traditional IPL devices exclude darker skin types from their recommended usage range."
My Review of the Epilaser 980
That's why I was incredibly excited to give Epilaser's new 980 model a go. Epilaser has changed the game by bringing a model to the market that's fully dedicated to Fitzpatrick skin types five and six. Even if you don't fall into these two categories, there's still another model available for light to medium skin tones—no one is left out.
Epilaser's 980 model is totally unique and Ziegesar shared why. "Unlike traditional IPL, Epilaser’s Smart Optic technology uses a built-in camera with intelligent optics to automatically scan and assess your skin in real time, ensuring the light targets only the hair follicle, not the surrounding skin," she says. "That means it’s safe and effective on a wider range of skin tones—including darker skin—without compromising on results or comfort."
I gave the Epilaser 980 a go for a few weeks to see how it measures up. I have done in-office laser hair removal treatments before, but have noticed a lot of growth in my most stubborn areas (armpits and bikini line) so I decided it was time to invest in a really solid at-home option. I was honestly thrilled that Epilaser made a device specifically for Black and Brown skin tones. Now, those with darker skin tones can enjoy laser hair removal without worrying.
What I love about this device is that it's completely painless. When I tried it for the first time, I had to make sure it was on and working because I, literally, didn't feel a thing. Normally, with IPL, you feel some heat and maybe a bit of stinging, but with this one, that's not the case. It's incredibly easy to use and comes with its own handy case and cover for the head of the laser. It's also cordless, rechargeable, and doesn't require glasses to wear with it. It's the perfect device to me and you can even travel with it if you have the room. It also might look big, but it's actually super lightweight and didn't tire my arm out after using it.
I've only been using the Epilaser for about a week and a half but have noticed some subtle results already. I'd gotten to a point where I had to shave every other day, but now, I've gone a bit longer between shave days so that's already a huge plus to me. The manual says that you only need to use the device two to three times a week and you can expect to see results after 12 weeks. I haven't hit the 12-week mark yet, but I already feel like the device is working for me which partially might be due to the fact that I've previously had in-office laser hair removal sessions before.
Overall, I know this device is more of an investment piece, coming in at $995. But, when you think about it, in-office laser hair removal sessions can be even more expensive—especially if you have stubborn, coarse hair like I do. My sister also got laser hair removal done professionally and said she had to do two full years of sessions before she stopped seeing growth. I then realized that it's worth it to save your money and invest in a really good home device like the Epilaser because it's a one-time payment and you can do it in the comfort of your own home. Epilaser is also amazing in terms of how easy and painless it is. I was shocked that I felt absolutely nothing when using this device. As someone who has done some pretty painful in-office sessions, this was a welcome change.
I wanted to provide a few more IPL device options for darker skin tones in this article but quickly realized that Epilaser is one of the few guaranteed safe options out there. I've still included a few of my other laser hair removal essentials below.
More Laser Hair Removal Essentials
I've also used Ulike's device on my legs and it worked extremely well. My skin tone is somewhere between type four and five on the Fitzpatrick scale, so I was able to get away with using this device. If you have a similar skin tone, you might be able to try this one out as well, but always talk to your dermatologist beforehand to make sure.
This is my all-time favorite razor. You should definitely shave a night or two before you decide to use your device and this one provides such a comfortable shave that you barely even feel like you're shaving.
I'm obsessed with this body scrub from Naturium. It's fragrance-free and works so well at preventing ingrown hairs. It contains a blend of AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs to thoroughly exfoliate, but it never dries out your skin.
Any time I want an exfoliant that's a bit more hydrating (and smells amazing), I reach for Josie Maran's exfoliating scrub in Bohemian Fig. You're not really supposed to do laser hair removal with lotion on, so this is the perfect alternative. It's hydrating, but doesn't feel greasy or leave a residue so you don't have to worry about using it before doing laser hair removal and you don't have to apply lotion after.
Laser hair removal definitely improves ingrown hairs, but it doesn't always completely get rid of them. If you struggle with them, this concentrate is amazing at dissolving them quickly.
You're not really supposed to use lotion after in-office laser removal, but I've found that I don't have any issues using one like Native's after using my at-home device. It's so hydrating with clean, simple ingredients and smells so good.
