It's Official: "Gothic Romanticism" Is the Sultriest Way to Wear Makeup This Valentine's Day

A collage of gothic romantic makeup, featuring Iris Apatow, Jenna Ortega, Emma Corrin, and Savannah Lee Smith
(Image credit: @alexandraafrench; Andreas Rentz/Getty Images; Samir Hussein/Getty Images; @domdella)

Welcome to Beauty's Night Out, a series dedicated to the need-to-know beauty conversations dominating the nightlife scene. Expect a first look at the latest trends, behind-the-scenes tutorials, and loads of going-out inspiration as you get all dolled up—all you need is your favorite playlist.

Valentine's Day is on the horizon, but something haunting is brewing in the beauty space. Sure, a red lip is always a classic choice for the occasion, but there's no denying the uptick in vampy, dark feminine makeup we've seen over the past several months, thanks to pop cultural touchstones like Tim Burton's Beetlejuice Beetlejuice, Robert Eggers's Nosferatu, and Lady Gaga's forthcoming album, "Mayhem." So I'm calling it: "Gothic romanticism" is the beguiling beauty trend poised to take over the holiday. It's more on-point than you think—after all, there's something inherently sultry about a dark, twisted fantasy.

Think of it as the antithesis of rom-com-inspired makeup, an aesthetic marked by flushed cheeks, blurred, rosy lips, and the dewy, shimmering skin one can only achieve from a theatrical kiss in the rain. Gothic romanticism still exudes main character energy—don't get me wrong—but it reads far less coy. "You really have to give it some attitude to make it work," notes celebrity makeup artist Donni Davy, founder of Half Magic Beauty. "It’s the opposite of demure, which perhaps is aggressive." That doesn't mean it isn't elegant—it is, painfully so. As celebrity makeup artist Dominique Della notes, dark feminine beauty is a marriage of strength and sensuality, power and vulnerability, and refinement and rebellion. It's classic give-and-take, and that's what makes it so alluring.

There's a goth girl lurking inside every personality, says international makeup artist Gina Kane; you just have to choose which one you'd like to amplify this Valentine's Day. "Which goth you channel is down to you and your mood," she adds. Below, explore three gothic-romantic aesthetics for whatever V-day plans you have on the books—a candlelit dinner for two, a Galentine's gathering, or a cozy movie night at home (might I suggest Nosferatu?).

Photo collage of '90s soft goth makeup

(Image credit: @alexandraafrench; @domdella)

I likely don't need to remind you, but just to cover my bases here: The '90s beauty revival is still going strong. Grungy, cool-toned eye makeup is already one of the biggest makeup trends of 2025, but instead of frosted, chrome hues, the pros predict pitch dark lids with cool, burgundy lips for this year's Valentine's Day looks. See: Iris Apatow's "smoked out latex eye" from Emmy award-winning makeup artist Alexandra French and Cruel Intentions star Savannah Lee Smith's dark academia glam (inspired by the original 1999 film) by Della.

"Savannah’s look is a perfect example of toeing the line between romantic and gothic. The smoky eye gives a bit of darkness and depth, while the burgundy lip brings drama and luxury," Della shares. She suggests tightlining with waterproof eyeliner all the way to the inner corners, which amplifies the smokiness without having to add more shadow. (Although, if you prefer exaggerated black eye paint á la Apatow, please, go right ahead!) For the lips, Della prefers a mixture of deep brown and black lip liner with a burgundy lipstick tapped on the center. "I like to lightly feather a red over the entire lip as the final step. This will help blend everything seamlessly while also amplifying the burgundy tones," She adds.

If using all-black eye makeup sounds a bit, well, heavy, try adding a layer of fairy-dusted shimmer. A little sparkle can lighten up the look without sacrificing the gothic vibe. "I love a wet, reflective element in a gothic look," notes Davy.

Your Night Out Staples

Photo collage of Victorian doll makeup

(Image credit: @alexandraafrench; Getty Images/Samir Hussein; Getty Images/Taylor Hill)

If '90s soft goth is defined by a punk, rebellious edge, then Victorian doll makeup dials up the romance. There's arguably no better reference than the cast of Nosferatu; even the press tour looks were brimming with romantic-goth elements. (Oh, how I love method dressing!)

"Emma [Corrin] is the perfect beauty chameleon," says Kane, who worked with the actor on said press tour (and, ahem, our gothic-inspired WWW cover). "The makeup I created for them [...] was an embodiment of a Victorian-era goth: pale, doll-like complexion, soft hollowed eyes, and a darker matte lip, elevated by a lighter brow." She recommends softly defining eyes with a cool-toned contour stick, then adding a muted grey eye shadow on top for a hollowed, "greige" effect. Skip the mascara and blush, then pop on a darker, soft-matte lip for a touch of mystery.

It sounds suspiciously minimal for a night-out beat, but achieving a smooth, refined base is half the battle. Kane recommends slowly layering foundation and concealer until it's "blended to perfection." Only then you can begin to mattify the T-zone and under-eyes with translucent powder for a velvety finish. As a general rule, cool tones are your friends. "Stick to grey, silvers, fine shimmers. No bronzer, just contour," adds French. The result might remind you of a Rembrandt painting—just like Chappell Roan's Paper Magazine cover look, mastered by Davy herself.

Your Night Out Staples

Photo collage of red hallowed gaze gothic makeup

Note: Just because you may eschew the rosy flush this Valentine's Day doesn't mean you must avoid red or pink tones entirely. Simply diffuse a red shadow on the eyes until you reach a dusty, hollowed effect (very Victorian-era goth), and commit to that as your sole color story. It's actually one of France's favorite go-to looks, seen on the lids of actors Chiara Aurelia and Victoria Pedretti—the latter of which went viral as users begged to know which shadow she used. (French's response? "The red eye shadow from Oden's Eye in the shade Leon. It will make you scream, cry, and throw up, it's so beautiful." Say no more!)

To ensure the look reads gothic-romantic—and not too on the nose—make sure to layer your pinks and reds with darker cool tones, like burgundy and black. "You could use black liner alongside pink eye shadow to create more intensity," offers Kane. "Textures and layering are brilliant ways to build up a look." You could even throw on a bright-red blush, adds Della, if you feel so inclined.

With endless inspiration on social media, the red carpet, and even in books (the "romantasy" reading genre has never been hotter, pun intended), this gothic-romantic aesthetic is more accessible than ever. "It’s sexy, mysterious, [and] makes everyone feel absolutely gorgeous, like they are able to transform themselves into something they typically don't present as," notes French. A metamorphosis, if you will, and the chicest way to spice things up.

Your Night-Out Staples

Jamie Schneider
Senior Beauty Editor

Jamie Schneider is Who What Wear’s senior beauty editor based in New York City. With over seven years in the industry, she specializes in trend forecasting, covering everything from innovative fragrance launches to need-to-know makeup tutorials to celebrity profiles. She graduated from the University of Michigan with a B.A. in Organizational Studies and English before moving to NYC, and her work has appeared in MindBodyGreen, Coveteur, and more. When she’s not writing or testing the latest beauty finds, Jamie loves scouting vintage boutiques and reading thrillers, and she’s always down for a park picnic in Brooklyn.