Ulla Johnson's "Blooming Lips" Are the Low-Lift Makeup Trend I'm Copying ASAP

As much as I'm down to experiment with my eye looks (jewel-toned mascara, graphic liner, smoky shadow—they're all fair game), I typically play it safe when it comes to lip color. Sure, I may take a burgundy or crimson hue out for a spin once the holidays roll around, but rarely do I stray from my pinky-mauve safety net.

But if there's ever a time to test your beauty limits, it's during New York Fashion Week, right? As I race from show to show covering backstage glam, I'm already tempted to re-create some of the stunning looks about to debut on each runway—and surprisingly, the fuchsia "blooming lips" from Ulla Johnson are at the top of my must-try list. Lead makeup artist Romy Soleimani taught me her exclusive tips for the low-key, subtly sexy look, and I just might have to make a bright pop of fuchsia part of my lip combo.

How to Achieve "Blooming Lips"

Ulla Johnson certainly loves her florals, so Soleimani always references some sort of hothouse flower in the glam. This season, she uses a very vibrant, jewel-toned fuchsia (namely, the Sisley Paris Lip Twist Matte in the shade Kiss), which she notes is "really sexy for spring."

Using a small lip brush, she taps the lip color onto the center of the lips before feathering it out with her fingertip. She recommends starting slow; you can always add another layer of color to the center of the lip if you'd like more of an impact.

Note that this isn't a blurred, popsicle lip in which the entire surface area becomes awash in bright, diffused color. "I'm not exaggerating it," Soleimani caveats. "I've done it in the past where it's very popsicle [like] with concealer on the edges. I'm not doing that." Rather, she keeps the color focused on the center of the lips, pressing it out until it practically disappears into the surrounding lip area. "I'm just letting [the model's] natural lip shine through," she explains.

Next, she intensifies the color by scribbling the Sisley Paris Phyto-Lèvres Perfect lip liner in Fuchsia on the center of the lips. "Just to pop it more, so it has that feeling of a flower in bloom," she tells me backstage. The result is bright, a tad sexy, and super low-lift—perfect if you want to elevate your lip look without committing to full-on fuchsia.

"It's a little bit lived in, but it's also a little bit more natural. It's a little extra," she adds. "It fades into a beautiful stain, so you can have your cocktails all night, wear your summer frock, and be easy." That sounds like an ideal night, IMO, but she says the pop of pink also looks amazing during the holidays. "It's one of those colors that is very complementary for every skin tone, which is really beautiful too," she adds.

Since "blooming lips" are the focus here, Soleimani keeps the rest of the beat pretty minimal. To add some natural warmth, she uses either the Sisley Paris Phyto-Blush Twist in the shade 5 Contour or a darker shade of the Phyto-Teint Perfection foundation, pressing with her fingers to blend the product along the cheekbones. She'll also tap Sisley Paris's Phyto-Rouge Sheer Cocoa lip balm on the cheeks, as the color has "a tiny bit of red in it and a tiny bit of sheen, just to give [the look] a sunny vibrance." Other than that, she steers clear of any blush. "It's not about a cheek," she says of the final look.

The brows gain a swipe of clear gel, courtesy of Phyto-Sourcils Fix, while the lashes are coated in a fine layer of Phyto-Noir Mascara. "We're using brown just to keep it really subtle. I also love the brown and pink combo [with the lips]," Soleimani says.

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