An Ophthalmologist Taught Me How to Restore Lash Loss—Now, Mine Are the Healthiest They've Ever Been

Since relocating to a new city, I've noticed a change in the overall look and feel of my lashes. While they've always been thick, coarse, and the slightest bit unruly, I've been experiencing some major dryness, leading to a loss in volume here and there. Once the cold months finally hit, I began to notice just how frequently I would absent-mindedly rub my irritated eyes in hopes of relieving some of the discomfort. Plus, eye drops could only do so much.

It wasn't until I finally asked an ophthalmologist for instructions on how to revive them (and revamp my skincare and makeup routines) that I recognized the need to pay at least three times more attention to my lash health. Wondering what needed to happen for me to get my healthy lashes back? Keep scrolling for tips and tricks on promoting lash health straight from an ophthalmologist and expert-approved product recommendations to help you get started.

Mobina Peiman poses with long, healthy lashes while wearing a gel under eye mask.

(Image credit: @mobinapeiman)

Signs of Unhealthy Lashes

So you've noticed a change in the texture and appearance of your lashes… Now what? It's time to get down to business and discover what could have contributed to a decline in their health. Ashley Brissette MD, MSc, FRCSC, shares a few signs to look out for that could clue us into what is happening under the surface. "Common things to look for which may be a sign of unhealthy lashes include thinning or sparse lashes, which could suggest nutritional deficiencies, hormonal concerns, or a potential reaction to cosmetic products. Excessive lash breakage or brittleness might be linked to harsh or improper makeup-removal methods," she says.

This is why she recommends the double-cleanse method to promote lash health. To double-cleanse, begin with a gentle makeup-melting balm, then follow with an eyelid cleanser designed to remove any residual product. Gradual or sudden lash loss can also be associated with conditions like blepharitis (inflammation of the eyelid) and traction alopecia, which Brissette sees in people who repeatedly wear eyelash extensions.

Brissette also highlights a consistently inflamed lash line that is red or itchy as indicative of an infection, inflammation, or allergy, and any lashes growing in the wrong direction can indicate poor follicle health or improper application of lash serum.

What Impacts Lash Health?

If any of these symptoms worsen or persist, Brissette recommends consulting an ophthalmologist to address the root cause and prevent further complications. Now that you know what to be on the lookout for, Brissette is breaking it down further by identifying what factors could lead to poor lash health. She highlights makeup products as one thing that majorly impacts how your lashes will look and feel. "Waterproof mascaras, while great for long-lasting wear, can be drying and harder to remove, which may lead to lash breakage. Heavy application of mascara or layering multiple coats can also weigh lashes down and cause them to clump together," Brissette says.

Eye makeup removers formulated with harsh chemicals may also irritate the skin around the eyes, impacting lash growth and integrity. By double-cleansing, you can combat the dirt and debris that get caught in your lashes throughout the day. "Our lashes function to trap all the dust, pollen, and pollution in our environments and prevent it from getting into the eyes, which is why it's important to wash your eyelids and lashes daily with an eyelid cleanser," she continues. "If you don't, all that debris sits there and irritates the eyes and lids, causing them to look and feel terrible." With that being said, our environments contribute to the health of our eyes.

Finding the Right Products

Shopping for the best products to address your unique concerns can be challenging without knowing what to look for, but luckily, Brissette told me how to select the best makeup, lash serum, and cleanser to support the health of my lashes without breaking the bank. For eye makeup, she recommends selecting a product that has been ophthalmologist tested and removing the makeup properly from your lashes by double-cleansing with a makeup-melting balm and a cleanser.

Brissette also recommends using an eye-safe lash serum to keep the skin hydrated and promote natural growth, avoiding formulas with prostaglandins. "Although they work, they have a lot of side effects, including irritation, darkening of the skin, dry eye, and—worst of all—fat atrophy around the eyes (sunken-in eyes). I recommend lash serums that are peptide based with moisturizing ingredients," she explains.

Mary L. Jean shows a makeup look using products from Caia Cosmetics.

(Image credit: @maryljean)

Next, always have an eyelid cleanser on hand. "A daily cleanser will get rid of all the pollutant debris that affects the health of our lashes and will hydrate the lashes, preventing breakage and loss," she explains.

Below, discover expert-approved picks for the best lash health–boosting products on the market that are safe for sensitive skin, easy to use, and highly effective. With the help of this superstar lineup, you'll have long, healthy lashes in no time.

1. Eyelid Cleansers

2. Serums

3. Lash Conditioners

4. Mascaras

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Maya Thomas
Associate Beauty Editor

Maya Thomas is Who What Wear's Associate Beauty Editor based in New York City. Her strong love for all things beauty and fashion stems from a strong childhood interest in the fine arts. During a gap year spent in Paris studying the history of French fashion, she shifted her focus to English literature and journalism as a student at Loyola Marymount University with the goal of one day pursuing a career in fashion. After graduating in May 2021, Maya began freelancing for Parade.com as a contributing commerce writer while also building a following on her lifestyle blog, Itsmayalala.com. When she's not writing, Maya spends her free time catching up on reading, perusing art galleries, and enjoying a night out at the ballet every now and then.