Apparently, I've Been Applying Hair Masks Incorrectly for 15 Years—5 Mistakes You *Don't* Want to Make

If your typical wash routine begins and ends with shampoo and conditioner, you might want to rethink your life decisions (said with love) and learn how to apply a hair mask as part of your hair rituals. Don’t worry, adding in that extra step doesn’t require too much maintenance. Chances are your hair could use extra attention, especially if it’s color-treated or you regularly use hot tools. Think about it: a deeply nourishing treatment that restores moisture, repairs damage, and gives your hair the kind of shine that would make someone mistake it for a wig? Take it from me and my bleached-blonde ‘do—it’s so worth it. A hair mask is like a ‘lil spa day for your hair!

Even if you don’t have overly processed hair, you can still reap the benefits of hair masks. And don’t think they’re just a glorified version of your regular conditioner. As Philip B., celebrity hairstylist and founder of his eponymous haircare line, puts it: “Conditioners are your basic moisturizer, your daily dose of nourishment, while a hair mask is a more intense, dense treatment formulation designed for deeper penetration, support for structure, and hair repair.” Philip B. goes on to say that it’s akin to the difference between “getting your steps in daily with a lightweight workout vs. your trainer creating a workout pushing your body with heavy strength training sets” that target specific muscle groups. “Both are important parts of your physical wellbeing, and both products are important for your hair health,” he explains.

While hair masks are not overly complicated, there are some mistakes that people (including myself) have made at first. However, they’re easy to avoid! Keep reading to learn more about what to do (and what not to do) when it comes to hair masks and how to apply them so your hair can be as healthy as possible.

1. Not All Hair Masks Are the Same

“People think that a mask is only heavy or weighs down the hair, so those with fine hair can’t use a mask, but that is not necessarily true,” says Philip B. “I have clients in 55 countries and many of them have fine, thin hair that’s been colored or chemically treated, but that type of hair definitely needs deeper treatment and conditioning, too.” The brand uses safflower oleosomes, which are practically weightless due to the tiny molecular size in their composition. “These nano-sized lipid molecules absorb into the medulla, cortex, and cuticle that make up the hair shaft enabling a deep, lightweight, and time-released delivery of moisture for shine and bounce,” says Philip B.

2. Using Too Much On the Scalp

A hair mask is obviously a more intense treatment, so you want to make sure you’re paying attention to how you’re applying it, specifically when it comes to your scalp. Overdoing it at the roots will leave you looking like you dunked your head in a vat of oil. Check the instructions—if it says it’s okay for your scalp, go ahead and give it a little love. If not, or if you have really greasy hair, do some damage control and stick to mid-lengths and ends.

3. Applying it Unevenly

Just like when you’re dying your hair at home (sorry, did I just say that?), applying the hair mask haphazardly can cause you to miss sections of your hair. A wide-tooth comb can be your best friend in this situation, so use one to distribute the mask evenly from mid-lengths to ends. (This step also detangles your hair and ensures maximum coverage.)

4. Not Leaving it On Long Enough

Rinsing the mask off too quickly is definitely a mistake I’ve made a couple of times. Too short of exposure doesn’t give the mask time to work, which is essentially wasting the product. Make sure you read the instructions on your mask, but overall, most of them need 5-20 minutes to work properly. If I’m in the shower and have a mask that takes 5-10 minutes, I’ll use that time to do my “everything shower” routine, like shaving and exfoliating.

5. Not Washing it Out Correctly

Raise your hand if you’ve ever had a moment where you realized you didn’t fully wash out your conditioner or hair mask. It happens to the best of us, and we’re left with a gross and annoying layer of residue, causing limp and greasy hair. Even more, leftover product can build up over time, causing scalp issues. Just make sure to rinse, rinse, and rinse some more, using your fingers to feel for any spots where the mask might still be hiding out.

How To Apply a Hair Mask

While it’s best to follow the instructions on each hair mask, these are the general steps on how to apply a hair mask to your hair the correct way.

Step one: Clean hair is key! “Apply the hair mask on wet, clean hair, either in or out of the shower,” says Philip B. However, he says that if you’re using a hot oil treatment or an oil-based mask, always apply it to dry hair.

Step two: Use a generous helping in sections combing through from root to ends (with extra attention to the bottom third of your length) and avoiding leaving too much product at the scalp.

Step three: After letting the mask soak for the recommended time, make sure to rinse it out thoroughly.

Step four: Dry and style as usual. Repeat weekly or as recommended for best results.

How to Choose a Hair Mask, According to Your Hair Type

For fine hair, look for lightweight, protein-rich formulas like Philip B.’s Weightless Volumizing Hair Masque which uses safflower oleosomes to deeply hydrate without weighing hair down.

For curly-hair, Philip B. says to look for masks with nourishing oils like coconut or shea butter to seal in moisture and preserve curl patterns.

For color-treated hair, “Opt for sulfate-free masks with amino acids and rice proteins to protect against breakage,” he says.

For dry or frizzy hair, rich, hydrating ingredients like avocado oil and shea butter are your best bet, according to Philip B.

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