Out of all the perfume brands in my collection, Diptyque's fragrances are amongst some of my all-time favourites. From L'Eau Papier to Eau Capitale to Philosykos (they're some of my most complimented perfumes, FYI), not a week goes by where I don't wear one of them. So, when I heard a a couple of months ago that the French fragrance house was launching a brand new line of perfumes this month, I audibly gasped.
What Are Les Essences De Diptyque?
Les Essences De Diptyque sits as a separate line amongst the core collection of fragrances. In the collection are five eau de parfums, each inspired by a different raw materials, including coral, mother of pearl, water lily, bark and desert rose, a type of crystal formation. The brand describes the collection as an 'olfactory odyssey' of nature's most treasured resources.
This is not only explored through each of the scents, the the design of the bottles too. The slender square shape—inspired by the original Diptyque bottles—features tactile embossing with the textures of each material. In keeping with the respect of nature, the packaging is made from recyclable materials and the bottles are also refillable. Plus, each fragrance comes with a chic pouch to store your perfume when travelling.
After trialling the new collection for a couple of months, I've shared my honest review of each of the scents below. Scroll ahead to find out how each of the fragrances smell, and how I rank my favourites from the collection.
Les Essences De Diptyque Perfume Review
1. Bois Corsé
Fragrance Family: Wood
Key Notes: Coffee, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber
I had a hard time choosing a favourite from the collection. But, Bois Corsé may have just swung it. Inspired by tree bark, this is one for the woody lovers who prefer sweetness rather than earthiness from their woody perfumes. Bois Corsé isn't a walk in the forest after rainfall, rather a cosy burning wood on the fireplace kind of vibe. This is warm, enveloping and sweet. But, it's not syrupy sweet. It smells more like a light cocoa dusting over creamy sandalwood, while tonka bean adds a nutty, warm and coffee-like quality. Wearing this feels so comforting, making it a great autumn perfume that will see you through winter. I do wish it lasted a little longer on the skin, as it's less noticeable after a few hours of wear.
Pros: Warm, cosy scent, ideal for those who like sweet and woody notes
Cons: Needs topping up after a couple hours of wear
Customer Review: "A rich and cosy scent, reminiscent of nutty, powdery cocoa butter lotion with a touch of coffee shop warmth. As it dries down, the fragrance develops a soft, sweet finish, perfect for autumn and winter. Unfortunately, the longevity leaves much to be desired. It only lasted about three hours on my skin, which is disappointing given its premium price."
2. Lilyphéa
Fragrance Family: Aquatic/Green
Key Notes: Cardamon, violet leaves, Madagascan vanilla
My next favourite is Lilyphéa, which is inspired by waterlilies. It's aquatic, crisp and refreshingly lush and airy. It really the perfume form of spring green. Imagine a sun-dappled pond with dewy lily pads gently floating on the sparkling water. It's like a Monet painting. It's definitely the most delicate-smelling of the collection, but even eight hours after spraying I could still detect it on my skin. The slightly spicy cardamon and luminous violet leaf are radiant on first spritz, mellowing down throughout the day to meet a very gentle vanilla base, which feels very cosy and skin-like in the dry down. It's so pretty, and would make a great scent year-round, but would be particularly great for sunny spring days.
Pros: Light, refreshing scent, lasts well throughout the day
Cons: None
Customer Review: "Realistic green leaf, fresh-cut stemmy top with a subtle wash of aquatic floral. It's crisp and clean. Smooth warm spiced vanilla with a gingery kick creeps in when the greenery subsides a bit. I'm not partial to vanilla in fragrance but this is my favorite and most ideal presentation of the note. The blend overall is serene, calming, sedative. I can't think of anything else I've smelled that is quite like it."
3. Corail Oscuro
Fragrance Family: Mineral
Key Notes: Mandarin, rose bourbon, salty mineral accord
Imagine: how would the colour coral smell? It's exactly what Corail Oscuro is. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant coral reefs in Venetian waters, the scent is vibrant, aquatic and such a summery fragrance. The nose, Alexandra Carlin, was inspired by brightness of coral amongst the dark depths of the seabed and the contrast of zesty mandarin with the ocean salty-ness really captures this. Out of all the scents in the collection, this lasted the longest on my skin, and I kept catching wafts of it throughout the day. Some reviewers have compared the scent to freshly slices jalapeños or bell peppers, and this fresh, vegetal greenness is definitely there. I'll definitely be reaching for this fragrance during the summer.
Pros: Lasts well, great summer scent
Cons: None
Customer Review: "There's a bitter vegetal green tinge featuring in the opening that would have been perfectly represented by a jalapeño, but I could also propose bell pepper as another image that comes to mind. Whatever it is, it fades out substantially into the background after the initial spray. There is rose in here, by the way, and it basically forms the core of the fragrance to me."
4. Lunamaris
Fragrance Family: Amber/Spicy
Key Notes: Pink peppercorn, incense, rockrose
Lunamaris intrigued me the most—it's inspired by mother of pearl, and I was really intrigued to see how it would be interpreted into a scent. It really does capture the opalescent colours you see on the inside of seashells. It is warm with ambery rockrose, subtly spicy with pink peppercorn, and mysterious with a swirl of incense. It's both warm yet mineral at the same time, conjuring the dappled moonlight on the ocean. It's really wearable for any time of day, any occasion and any time of the year. I found that it didn't last quite as well as some of the others, so I would recommend topping up after four hours.
Pros: Great year-round scent
Cons: Not as long-lasting
Customer Review: "Diptyque has truly nailed the slightly smoky, mysterious edge they give to beautiful, creamy florals. Lunamaris isn't too strange or off-putting, and could really be considered a "skin-scent" in the way that L'Eau Papier is. It's a little bit sweeter, spicier and palatable than L'Eau Papier in my opinion."
5. Rose Roche
Fragrance Family: Floral
Key Notes: Lemon, centifolia rose, patchouli
I'm not a huge floral lover, but I can appreciate that those who like citrusy, rosy scents will enjoy this fragrance. This one is inspired by the crystal formations that develop in deserts, which are called desert rose. I could really notice the scent on my skin throughout the day, so it definitely has some impressive silage in the first couple of hours.
Pros: Ideal for floral and citrus lovers, very wearable, long-lasting
Cons: Some don't like the dry-down
Customer Review: "I mean this in the kindest way possible, but I get lemon pepper seasoning and rose. Not sure if pepper is in the mix but I definitely pick it up. In the dry down, the fragrance transforms into a warm, spicy rose, from the pepper and patchouli notes. Citrus lingering in the background. The longevity is good, though the sillage is noticeable only in the first 2-3 hours before it softens to a skin scent for the following 5-6 hours. Pleasant as it is, the price point doesn't quite match its value."
Set of 5 Eaux De Parfum
If you want to try all of the scents before buying a full bottle (or can't decide on which of the five is your favourite) there is also this beautiful set of 10ml bottles to explore, or pop into your bag for on the go top-ups.
