Sorry, Scent Snobs—It's Time We Accept This Y2K Icon Is Still the Most Expensive-Smelling Perfume Ever Made

The fragrance world seems to have found itself in somewhat of a unique space in recent years. The best perfumes are no longer defined by their sales or popularity, but rather how under-the-radar they can remain. When you think about the most defining fragrances of modern years, they all have one very critical thing in common—they’re niche perfumes that have seen a surge in popularity off the back of their previously lesser-known status.

Yes, everyone wants to smell unique and feel as though their chosen signature scent was created exclusively for them. The minute any given scent becomes mainstream? It’s done for. But in a sea of niche up-and-comers, there are classics that have, in a strange turn of events, found themselves earn the title of underrated perfumes. As beauty-hall perfumes have started falling out of favour, I am of the opinion that we have been wrongfully turning our backs on certain fragrances that prove some of the world's most adored. And one perfume I feel particularly passionately about in regards to this is Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.

I have spent a big chunk of my career working behind the scenes at some of the country's biggest beauty retailers, and I can attest to the fact that Chanel Coco Mademoiselle perfume has long been one of the most loved, most purchased and most popular perfumes of our time.

And, truthfully, I've been hard pressed to find a fellow beauty journalist or fragrance expert who doesn't consider it to be one of the greatest, most beautiful and most expensive-smelling perfumes in existence. But sadly, as a well-loved beauty-hall fragrance, you could argue that, in recent times, Coco Mademoiselle has started to lose its "cool" factor—and this, in my opinion, is a terrible thing.

But, thankfully, I'm predicting things are about to take a major turn for the better. Why? Firstly, as somebody who specialises in identifying shifts in perfume trends (and whose predictions are rarely wrong, might I add), I have noticed a number of people starting to feel let down by the longevity of some of their (very expensive) new fragrance discoveries. I have also noticed a particular shift towards people wanting their perfumes to pack more of an expensive-smelling punch—and this is where Coco Mademoiselle goes unrivalled.

When it comes to longevity, sillage and all-encompassing luxe-smelling richness, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle is the crème de la crème. Beyond all of this, it's worth noting that Coco Mademoiselle's profile remains every bit as enticing, compliment-winning and appealing as it has ever been.

Here's why, after many years of pausing my Coco Mademoiselle wear, I'm dousing myself in it once again—and why I'm certain it's set for a major resurgence in 2025.

The History

When Chanel launched Coco Mademoiselle back in 2001, some might say the brand had no idea what it was starting. Created by iconic Chanel nose, Jacques Polge (who is also famed for creating the likes of Chanel Chance and Allure), Coco Mademoiselle was created as a fragrance marketed towards a more youthful Chanel customer. Its predecessor, Coco, was a cult power scent of the '80s and '90s, where heady, smack-you-right-in-the-face notes of spicy clove and resinous amber swirl around your brain like a totally intoxicating plume of smoke. And, although still undeniably one of the most luxurious scents ever made, as we entered the new millennium, fragrance tastes started to shift.

We turned our backs on power perfumes and, instead, looked towards lighter, sweeter, fresher scents that embodied all-encompassing carefree frivolity. And so, Coco Mademoiselle was born. By the early noughties, Coco Mademoiselle was on the necks of young women the world over, with Kate Moss, and later Keira Knightley and Whitney Peake, becoming the ultimate Coco Mademoiselle icons.

By circa 2012, Coco Mademoiselle was the signature perfume of the coolest women you knew—and it has gone on to become Chanel's bestselling perfume, sometimes even outperforming No5.

When I posted a single image of it on my Instagram Stories last week, and asked my followers to respond with the first thoughts that sprung to mind, some overwhelming responses included:

• "My first 'grown up' scent"
• "Telling everyone it was 'my' perfume in 6th form, so no one else could wear it"
• "Total nostalgia"
• "Undeniably chic"
• "The scent of so many youthful memories"
• "I felt so 'grown up' when I wore this stuff"
• "My 20s, through and through"

It is clear: Coco Mademoiselle is a nostalgic icon.

The Testimonials

When I spoke with the wider Who What Wear UK team, the response was, frankly, beautiful—and it proves that the love for Coco Mademoiselle will never wane.

Deputy editor, Maxine Eggenberger said, "I gave it to both of my bridesmaids on the morning of my wedding—whenever I smell it it brings me back to sipping champagne and us all getting ready together. One of them now considers it her signature scent."

"Chanel Coco Mademoiselle was the first perfume I ever bought for myself when I was a teenager. And–as a testament to Chanel’s timeless reputation–it has stayed in my scent rotation ever since. I first bought it on a weekend away in Paris (I was much chicer then, apparently) and instantly fell in love with the light and fruity notes. Growing up, my mum always wore Coco, so when I discovered there was a sweeter, more summery version that still kept the classic orange and bergamot as a base, I was hooked," revealed Annie Wheatland-Clinch, assistant social media editor.

eCom analyst, Sophie Cookson is also a fan. "Chanel Coco Mademoiselle was my first 'grown up' perfume and became my signature scent for the next 10 years. I became known for the fresh, feminine smell, with my friends being able to pick out my clothes on scent alone. It became my armour for date nights, work meetings and everything in-between," she said.

The Scent

So, let's get into it. If by some fluke you are yet to come across the scent of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, let me indulge you. While the likes of No5 and Chanel’s original Coco possess power scent qualities that command a room the moment they enter, Coco Mademoiselle sits in its own category entirely.

I could write a thesis on the one-of-a-kind scent profile, but I'll try to keep things short. While the light freshness of orange dances over the skin and a zingy hit of bergamot tickle the nose at first, I want to make it clear that Coco Mademoiselle is not a fresh perfume. It behaves as a warm, enveloping, velvety cloak of sparkling brilliance. It possesses that iconic Chanel shimmer (that I often compare to a chilled glass of Dom Perignon Vintage) that smells undeniably luxurious, with a heart of musky, warming, sweetly enticing florals that ooze elegance.

You do notice Coco Mademoiselle when she enters the room, but she doesn’t need to scream for your attention. She is the sort of person you steal glances of from across the room. She oozes poised luxury—and yet, there is still something carefree, fun and slightly mischievous about her.

Coco Mademoiselle is not the power-suit-donning businesswoman who considers the office her second home—quite the contrary. Instead, it is the girl who turned up to work wearing the shirt belonging to last night’s date. It is the girl who always loses her keys, who talks too much, who misses her flights, who lives life to the fullest and who, frankly, doesn’t give a damn. In essence, Coco Mademoiselle is the cool, fun, effortlessly chic friend we all want to have around.

The Future

To this day, Coco Mademoiselle is still a global bestseller—and, as you have now discovered, this is for good reason. But as we all long to smell totally unique, I'm left wondering if, actually, we've still somehow all ended up smelling the same. For the past month, I have been dousing myself in Coco Mademoiselle once again—and the results have been astonishing.

Not only does it possess the power to bring out the most assured version of myself, but I've had people flocking to me with perfume-related compliments. It seems as though, perhaps, we have forgotten the power of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle. But now it is ready for its resurgence.

If there is one thing to know about Chanel, it is that as the world's leading and most respected fragrance house, it has a track record of knowing what we want before we do—and the house is also aware of the fact Coco Mademoiselle is back on the collective trend agenda. This month, it launched the Coco Mademoiselle Purse Chain—a wearable bag charm that houses a refillable 7ml bottle for on-the-go spritzes—and I have already spotted it swinging from the classic flaps of many of London's it girls.

With Chanel hard set on putting Coco Mademoiselle back onto the necks of the world's coolest women once more (TikTok is sure to be flooded with content around the upcoming photo booth pop-ups the brand is planning in Cambridge, Liverpool and London), mark my words: you'll be smelling a lot more of Coco Mademoiselle this year.

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