Given the perplexing forecast this summer, we're already hot on the heels of autumn at Who What Wear UK. The change in seasons is afoot and autumnal dress trends have begun to dominate prematurely. An influx of our favourite ready-to-wear pieces from February's runways have been landing on luxury retailer sites and have inspired the high street alike. Like the micro mini was to S/S 22, dresses spearheaded 2023’s autumn/winter shows. As a dedicated lover of frocks, it’s cause for celebration and an invitation to bring forth my favourite styles, give or take some seasonal adjustments.
Dress offerings for the coming season are nothing short of inspirational. They're unapologetically baroque, and a variety of styles were forecast at the shows. Designs showcased comprised jewel tones, feather adornments and gauzy fabrics in excess, to name but a few of the flourishes designers blessed us with. Styles from Christopher Kane to Chanel took to the runway in elongated proportions, sheer fabrics and partywear-inspired looks to bookmark for (dare I say it) end-of-year celebrations.
Channelling the "more is more" sentiment and bulbous corsage detailing of this summer, autumn dress trends have transitioned to styles of a similar ilk but with darker hues and autumn-appropriate textures. "Main-character" dressing has inspired an influx of avant-garde and wonderfully lurid styles. Adornments have become the protagonist of dressing, and an appreciation of flowers (we mustn’t forget Loewe or Ludovic de Saint Sernin's anthurium tributes in the spring) has preserved and paved the way for myriad adornments. Florals have been joined by '20s-style feather gowns, ruffles, peplum shapes and frothy tulle, courtesy of Zimmerman and Paul & Joe, to name but a few.
Designers continued to revert to throwback heroes like the ‘90s slip dress, proving the longstanding appeal of Y2K-inspired fashion, though this year it boasts a mature and refined feel that lovers of classic styles can appreciate.
I’ve assessed the autumn 2023 dress trends to bring you nine styles that are guaranteed to inspire this autumn. Keep reading to discover the dress trends that will be dominating fashion in the upcoming season.
1. Swathed in Silk
It's no secret that luxury designers favour lustrous fibres. An adoration for silk, satin and sumptuously soft fabrics has infiltrated the whole fashion year, and autumn 2023 has inspired a wave of cocooned and swathed iterations of bias cuts. The more fabric, the better.
Style Notes: Silk silhouettes have been lauded for many seasons, and as we edge closer to autumn, they become even more prominent. I'll be styling svelte silhouettes with ballerina shoes.
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A cocooned cut in this silk-like ecovero satin is the epitome of autumn event dressing.
I've been patiently waiting for Tove's A/W releases ever since I witnessed the breathtaking show in February, and the pieces do not disappoint. The column shape and high neckline are exquisite details on this fluid silhouette.
The boat neckline and dipped-hem details are reminiscent of designer pieces.
Calvin Klein has mastered slip dresses since the noughties, but it's a brand that's often overlooked. This iteration boasts a unique halterneck and metal adornment.
2. Moody Florals
Who What Wear UK's managing editor Poppy Nash is a lifelong-lover of floral dresses, so she, for one, is all over moody florals for autumn. "I've always been a floral-dress girl, but traditionally the print is—at least in my wardrobe—reserved for summer. This season however, I'll be introducing grungy, moodier iterations of my favourite pattern into my cold-weather repertoire, whether that's via a midi dress paired with black, knee-high boots and leather details or a mini worn with barely-there heels. Some of the standout moments for the trend on the A/W 23 runways included modest, roll-neck dresses in New York courtesy of Veronica Beard; and free-flowing gowns in London from Paul & Joe," says Poppy.
Style Notes: One thing is guaranteed in the cyclical world of fashion, and it's that moody florals will make an appearance come autumn. Lean into the unpolished look with a boxy leather jacket over your dresses.
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An amalgamation of the deep florals and lingerie trends.
An update on the typical autumnal floral with a twist of romantic red.
Gothic florals come around like clockwork each fall season, but that doesn't negate the ingenuity of design features and contemporary elements.
Jacquard florals set to a black background—this LBD will never be passé.
3. Ruched Elements
Make way for Grecian-inspired wrap designs and cocoon shapes. Bandeau necklines were a hit this summer, and continue to be seen throughout autumnal dress offerings, complete with longer sleeves and generous swathes of fabric.
"Ruching is the Y2K trend I never thought I'd see again, but lo and behold, it's suddenly everywhere once more… and I kind of love it," says Who What Wear UK's affiliate editor, Emily Dawes. "On dresses, it feels like a natural progression from the second-skin column dresses we saw everywhere last year, thanks to Loewe. The addition of draped details this year feels much more flattering and, to be honest, interesting. I love how designers (and high street brands) are getting imaginative with their ruched designs for autumn 2023, and I certainly plan on investing in this trend that feels both modern and classic."
Style Notes: Mix and match textures when cooler seasons arrive. Why not pair bustier styles with an organza top underneath?
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A cinched waist and deep V-neck will further accentuate the figure.
It may be a trend-led design, but this is a piece I'd wear forever.
I'm in awe of this contemporary design, colourway and discounted price.
The ruched elements are functional and allow you to style this dress in myriad ways. It looks unique on every figure.
4. Exuberant Adornments
Cold weather calls for design features that veer towards the exuberance of party season. Feather trims, corsages, sequins and taffeta are some of the details highlighted by designers, which all come under the umbrella of adornments. Chanel, Zimmerman and Burberry showcased these styles, and we mustn't forget Noir Kei Ninomiya's offerings, which wholly evoke "more is more".
Style Notes: This style calls for streamlined accessories, muted tones and pared-back beauty looks.
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One to bookmark for party season.
Your occasionwear is sorted. Just add strappy sandals.
Darling rose buds on a figure-forming gown.
Magda Butrym masters blossom adornments no matter the season.
5. Lingerie on Show
Designers agree that lingerie is far too precious to be hidden, transforming it into floor-length gowns with the most delicate appliqué threadwork. Armani, Alexander Wang and Bally are a few of many that backed this trend.
Style Notes: This season, many styles are exuberant enough that they don't require much fuss. With lingerie dresses, nipple covers will be your best friend.
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Make a grand entrance in this classic party gown.
A modern asymmetric silhouette with a peep of lace.
Me+Em has released a floor-length gown that you could easily wear to a black-tie event.
The lustre of a silken khaki dress is something truly special.
6. Sheer on Show
The season for organza, tulle and netted overlays is fast approaching, and for autumn 2023, designers including Miu Miu, Gucci and Christian Siriano embraced sheer elements.
"Okay, it might not be for everyone, but there's something about the risqué allure of a sheer dress that has been shaking up the runways for the last couple of years, and I'm wholeheartedly on board," says Remy Farrell, Who What Wear UK's shopping editor. "Granted, it isn't a dress for running errands, but you can't beat the head-turning prowess of the barely-there evening dress, and everyone from brides to influencers are turning to see-through styles for a look that stands out from the crowd. Whether you step into Nensi Dojaka-esque slips or pile on frothy layers of tulle à la Molly Goddard, the sheer dress is an expression of self-love and unashamed confidence. And who doesn't want to subscribe to that?"
Style Notes: At first glance this trend may seem hard to wear, but it's a style to be embraced as one that celebrates the body (if that's something you're into). Granted, it's daring, but for autumn and winter, you can pair transparent dresses with full-coverage underwear or a slip underlay.
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The modest neckline with the sheer element is the perfect juxtaposition of styles.
This is so reminiscent of an authentic '90s slip dress.
A form-fitting knit in a sheer cupro fabric.
Incorporate sheer elements into your day-to-day dressing with a fit-and-flare silhouette. The organza overlay will ease you into the sheer trend.
7. Va-Va Volume
The '50s babydoll dress has been thrust into the limelight, this time with a modern update. It's now a reimagined style with a "grown-up" appeal—part whimsical aesthetic, part formal. We owe this to longline bustiers with drop-waist features. It's a ballerina frock for the modern woman that oozes joie de vivre and boasts a nostalgic appeal.
Hannah Almassi, Who What Wear UK's editor-in -chief, is extra pleased to see the return of the babydoll. "Ever since I invested in a full-skirted dress from Esse Studios last year, I haven't wanted to wear anything but this silhouette! It works for my hourglass figure to have something that fits at the waist and is swishy around the hips and thighs. It's romantic, but you can keep things minimal and chic by opting for block colours, elevated fabrics and styles with very few frills or adornments," she says.
Style Notes: Complement full-volume skirting with a sleek hairstyle and streamlined footwear. The skirt's wide circumference does all the talking, so you needn't work too hard on the rest.
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A sculpted bustier and flounced skirt makes for a wonderful occasion dress. When the temperature drops, incorporate a jumper into this look.
Make like a princess with an exaggerated, cloud-like silhouette, courtesy of Amy Lynn.
A firm favourite at Who What Wear UK.
Vivienne Westwood's Sunday dress features a corset-inspired waist and a modern take on the cowl neckline.
8. Flesh Tones
Camel shades are often associated with functionality (overcoats and knitwear, for example) but a number of 2023's iterations boast an elevated and directional appeal—from peek-a-boo gapes to thigh-high splits, the A/W 23 shows demonstrated the myriad ways to elevate sepia-toned knits.
Style Notes: Pair caramel-hued frocks with brownish accessories for a contemporary, tonal look.
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Camel is a timeless colourway, but this season it's been pushed into the spotlight. Jacquemus' Dao dress comprises splicing and sheer element, making it even more current.
Press pause on your wardrobe switchover, as shirring has a place for autumn, too. This dress will look equally chic paired with knee-high boots.
It's a shame to leave asymmetric necklines in the summer. Come Autumn, reassign these pieces to your evening-wear wardrobe.
This dress would be hard to pick out of a designer lineup. The drape and slashed neckline are reminiscent of pieces five times its price point.
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